NIGO’s latest collection for KENZO revisits one of the Maison’s most important landmarks while continuing to shape its future.
For Spring/Summer 2027, NIGO has returned to Paris' Place des Victoires, the historic square where founder Kenzo Takada opened his first flagship boutique in 1976. Half a century later, the location becomes the starting point for a collection that celebrates the house's heritage while embracing a fresh perspective.
The collection explores contrast at every turn. For example, Tailoring meets sportswear, while masculine silhouettes sit alongside softer, more romantic forms. Meanwhile, archival references are reworked through a contemporary lens, all while NIGO looks to photographs of Kenzo Takada and cultural figures from the 1970s, including Miles Davis.
Elsewhere, familiar preppy codes continue to play a central role in NIGO’s vision for the brand. Varsity jackets, rugby shirts, collegiate graphics and heritage-inspired insignia appear throughout the collection, although they're rarely presented in expected ways. A rugby shirt is transformed into a sweeping dress, while varsity-inspired embellishments extend beyond outerwear and onto footwear, demonstrating the designer's willingness to blur traditional categories.
Romance also runs throughout the collection, particularly through an extensive use of ribbon detailing. Inspired by both the historic haberdashery stores surrounding Place des Victoires and Kenzo Takada's own archive, ribbons appear across jackets, skirts, cuffs and collars, while oversized bows and flowing trims introduce movement across the collection. One standout look is constructed entirely from custom ribbons, paying tribute to Takada's celebrated ribbon dress from the Maison's Autumn/Winter 1982 presentation.
Prints continue that dialogue with the archive. Bonsai graphics reference one of Takada's own poems, while painterly florals and archival botanical motifs sit alongside illustrations inspired by the original opening celebrations at Place des Victoires. Together, they reinforce the collection's themes of optimism, individuality and creative freedom.
For fabrications, Japanese denim is elevated through refined tailoring and ribbon embellishments, while velour denim, houndstooth, textured knitwear and fil coupé florals introduce depth across both the men's and women's offerings. Womenswear combines sheer organza, flowing skirts and babydoll dresses with more structured shapes, while menswear balances practical workwear influences with tailored details that soften traditional utility.
Accessories continue to bridge past and present. The archival Victoire bag returns in new leather, canvas and embroidered finishes, while the Kite family expands with fresh colourways. Printed pillow bags and silk scarves also make an appearance, reviving accessories that have long been associated with the Maison.
The season also welcomes two notable footwear partnerships. Converse joins KENZO to reinterpret the Chuck 70 and Jack Purcell through floral graphics, varsity-inspired detailing and bonsai motifs, while French shoemaker Paraboot collaborates with the Maison for the first time, updating its signature Michael shoe with subtle metal hardware and collegiate branding. Elsewhere, ballet-inspired footwear evolves through hybrid boot silhouettes finished with delicate bow details.
As a whole, the collection reconnects with the spirit that defined KENZO from its inception. By combining references from the Maison's past with his NIGO’s design language, the result is a collection that feels playful, optimistic and distinctly contemporary, proving that the conversation between heritage and innovation is far from over.
