We went to the Valentino Le Noir re-see with Lyas

We went to the Valentino Le Noir re-see with Lyas

by Ollie Cox
5 min

On Sunday, we were lucky enough to witness Valentino present its Fall/Winter 2024-25 women’s collection, and yesterday, we went to the re-see with our friend Lyas to talk all things Valentino – which was live-streamed on our TikTok for your viewing pleasure.

This time around, the Maison veered away from its signature Rosso Valentino shade and instead explored the beauty of all-black dressing. Titled “Le Noir,” we got a mighty monochrome delivery, which schooled us on texture and accessories. 

When it came to the polishing touches, we were treated to pieces such as all-black iterations of the Valentino Garavani accessories: the Locò and VLogo Moon bags, which danced down the runway in the palms of models. 

As is to be expected from Valentino, the devil really was in the details, and naturally, we wanted to see the craftsmanship for ourselves. Yesterday, Lyas jumped in the car with us to check out the collection once again. Sounds fun, right? Keep reading to see what we got up to at the Valentino Le Noir re-see.

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Black as a canvas 

At first glance, if we told you the show was all one colour, you might, only for a very fleeting moment until you saw how beautiful the collection was, think it was boring, and that is not the case. On the runway, we saw reflective appliques intersect with muted velvet tones, playing with light to create the allure of shades.  When we asked Lyas about the use of simply one colour, he saw it as a way of really showing the strength in design. 

“When you become restrictive, that’s when you become the most creative. Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino – he chose one colour to play with and to use for the whole collection. That’s when you can actually bring your creativity to life, nurture it and find ways to find new ideas, textures, fabrics, and ways of shaping the body. And I think he does it pretty amazingly, to be honest,” he told us.

Devilishly good details  

Straight away, we were drawn to the intricacies of the collection, with the details remaining dominant. A fringed dress stood out, which was a highlight for both us and Lyas, who was amazed at how individual strands created a “voluptuous” movement. We have to agree it was mesmerising, and we won’t be forgetting it in a hurry.  

When it came to footwear, the classic Valentino Vlogo Mary Jane commanded the catwalk, updating the classic style an eveningwear elegance. These struck the balance between fashion and function with an effortlessness only Valentino could achieve.

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Bags bags bags 

As Lyas put it to us, “What would a Valentino woman be without her bag?” For a brand like Valentino, which is known for its jet set-chic clientele, being on the move is inherent to its designs, so having a little something special to hold everything important is a part of the uniform. 

For FW24, we saw the Valentino Garavani Locò bags put front and centre, with some finished with reflective materials, catching the light like a glitterball. Later iterations saw the iconic design, which is finished with the Maison’s iconic “VLogo,” accented with floral details. While flowers may not construct bags in this life, as Lyas put it, “in this fantasy, they do.” 

It wasn’t just the lovely Valentino Garavani Locò that got a makeover for FW24. We also saw the Valentino Garavani VLogo Moon bags on the runway too. These were a thing of beauty and led us to question just what splendid occasions you could bring these pieces of arm candy along to. Lyas gave us a hand thinking of some. “They come in different textures, or kind of like a new skin for a new night out, or a new appointment or a new brunch, who knows?” 

Distinguished by the new VLogo, The Bold Edition closure, two new chain bags have marked a bold statement on the runway. Valentino Garavani flap shoulder bag, delivering a relaxed-chic allure, a new top handle bag crafted from smooth calf leather. The Valentino Garavani soft two-faced shoulder bag results from two different bags sewn to each other on the rear panel, with the VLogo The Bold Edition standing out at the front. A leather handle is placed underneath the bag, providing an additional attitude

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If you’ve ever watched a Valentino show, you’ll notice Pierpaolo Piccioli rarely takes his bow without his trusty black hoodie, and yesterday was no different. Valentino’s Le Noir collection saw a leather hoodie, which Lyas perfectly summed up as a “nearly couture take on the hoodie. Made from leather and padded with jersey, it keeps its shape always, and the idea of shape is very important for the Maison.” 

This elevation of what is a traditionally casual design was something we loved sharing with Lyas, who felt like it perfectly summed up the Valentino woman. “She can look casual while still being sophisticated and chic.”

The sheer dress

How could we discuss the Valentino Le Noir collection without discussing the sheer dresses? These detail-driven pieces were highlights of the re-see, which enabled us to see the ways they reflected the light so well. The combination of tulle and organza created a beautiful tension between light and dark, perfectly reflecting the sensuality we saw on the runway. 

We were amazed at the level of detailing on the closing look, which was a favourite of Lyas’ too. “The little organza bubbles are filled with glitter, small sequins that are not enough for you to see them from afar, but enough for it to create a reflection and a multitude of colours with just one colour, and that’s the power of Pierpaolo Piccioli this season,” he so eloquently put.

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