Having had her runway debut over 40 years ago now, Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons has become an absolute mainstay in the Paris Fashion Week schedule and, well, for good reason. It’s always a show-stopping presentation and this season was no different - only it seems like she might’ve looked back at her middle school math notes this time.
Her otherworldly designs never fail to disappoint and this season was definitely not an exception, with the collection kicking off with many of the pieces looking like it was frozen in time as the clothes were in motion. The result was an offering filled with geometrically satisfying pieces with rigid structures that maintained the desired shape that Kawakubo had in mind. The ruching was theatrical, the edges were sharp and the silhouettes were some of the grandest you could imagine. One of the looks even looked like unravelled origami with the diagonal creases that were prominent all over the look.
As the show went on, these rigid structures began to soften, more frills were added and, what felt like a stiff ordeal, began to seem a lot more playful, more feminine. Colours got brighter and bolder too, with splashes of hot pink and deep reds that broke up the navy and grey tones from the beginning. Patterns were added too, with tartan prints being offset by floral motifs to show a progression from powerful to cheerful.
Before we get to the last end of the show, it’s impossible to ignore the standout headpieces that Kawakubo has made her staple. Whether it be a hairy, blunt, wig-looking accessory or dramatic hats with wide, uneven brims that look like they’ve spent decades on a scarecrow, they would elevate each look in such a flamboyant manner.
To finish off the collection, the looks steered away from the vibrant colours and opted for more monochromatic styles (except that one red look) that combined the juxtaposing aesthetics that we’d seen up to this point. These black and white looks looked like they would’ve been on Kawakubo’s iteration of “Abracadabra” by Lady Gaga, mixing geometric shapes with various frills and ruches.
This collection is living proof that Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons has really reached legendary status in the fashion game. ATP, she’s just flexing on these rookies and showing us why she sits at the pinnacle of Paris Fashion Week and, TBH, we’re here for it.
Featured images via Getty ©
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