Saint Laurent is a blockbuster when it comes putting on a show, and its Spring/Summer 2024 runway at Paris Fashion Week – held beneath the glistening lights of the Eiffel Tower – was something else. Anthony Vaccarello is an expert when it comes to womenswear, and his SS24 presentation made women empowered, confident, bold, protected, and ready for whatever life throws their way.
Why? Because when their armour is Saint Laurent’s take on utilitarian military uniforms, the Vaccarello girls can do whatever they want.
The show commenced with a sequence of looks falling within tailored militare, updated with cropped tops, elongated high-waisted bottoms, and belts tightening the middle. The influences became even clearer later on, with khaki pencil skirts subverting one’s eye to think they were combat shorts – oh no, not at Saint Laurent, darling. Likewise, the boxy shirts were now silk white blousons, unbuttoned in a way that exuded Vaccarello’s accentuation of femininity.
Overalls transformed into dresses as model after model came around Saint Laurent’s marble box, while a trench coat (sporting oversized lapels and belts) or aviation gloves and leather head caps split up the sequence.
It was only towards the end when we started to get the full picture of Vaccarello’s SS24 collection. In his powerful military uniforms and aviation interpretations came confidence, and this was later exuded by the (literally) sheer confidence of many a model.
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Sheer materials were used to cut dramatic halter neck vest tops, with those being tucked into those aforementioned pencil skirts. It came in khaki and brown variations, both decorated with a scarf and Saint Laurent’s latest eyewear – naturally following the aviation theme.
Day-to-night numbers like silk slip dresses, cargo-informed tailored pants, and a rather fetching ochre-tinted overalls set with altered proportions closed the show.
We expected Anthony Vaccarello to present us with a collection that spoke to the women of today. We expected him to smash it out of the park and put on a to-die-for display. What we didn’t expect, and what we evidently got, was a collection that really defined the Saint Laurent woman. Don’t you want to be her?
Take a look at Saint Laurent SS24 by Anthony Vaccarello here. More Paris Fashion Week content can be found on Culted, on Culted’s Instagram, and on Culted’s TikTok – where you can find us chatting with Hailey Bieber, Demi Moore, and Kate Moss at Saint Laurent, no less.
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