Just when fashion appeared to be settling after several years of creative director reshuffles, BoringNotCom decided to throw the industry back into a state of agitation.
Posting under the suitably cautious hashtag #allegedly, the Instagram account shared a flurry of messages claiming that Anthony Vaccarello could be preparing to leave Saint Laurent. The posts also named a potential successor: Chemena Kamali, the current creative director of Chloé.
Neither Saint Laurent, Chloé nor their respective parent companies have confirmed the claims, meaning the story remains firmly within the realm of industry speculation. Nevertheless, the possibility of such a move has immediately captured attention.
Vaccarello has led Saint Laurent since 2016, developing a precise and instantly recognisable identity built around sharp tailoring, uncompromising glamour and a distinctly nocturnal sensuality. His influence has also pushed the house beyond the traditional boundaries of fashion. Under his direction, Saint Laurent has expanded deeper into music, art and cinema, most notably through the launch of Saint Laurent Productions.
Replacing a designer so closely connected to the house’s contemporary image would represent a significant change. However, Kamali would not be arriving without an understanding of the Saint Laurent machine.
Before joining Chloé as creative director in 2023, Kamali served as womenswear design director at Saint Laurent under Vaccarello. Her potential appointment would therefore bring an element of continuity, even if her recent work at Chloé has presented a noticeably different vision.
At Chloé, Kamali has helped restore the maison’s romantic and instinctively feminine identity. Her collections have embraced fluid silhouettes, nostalgic references and the free-spirited attitude historically associated with the Chloé woman. The approach has generated renewed excitement around the house and established Kamali as one of the most closely watched designers working in Paris.
Saint Laurent’s current world is sleek, severe and controlled, while Kamali’s Chloé is softer, more bohemian and emotionally expressive. Whether she would import any of that romanticism or reconnect with the sharper instincts developed during her previous Saint Laurent tenure is already becoming a subject of debate.
For now, however, it is important to separate speculation from reality. Vaccarello remains Saint Laurent’s creative director, while Kamali continues to lead Chloé. No official departure or appointment has been announced.
If BoringNotCom’s claims prove accurate, the industry could be approaching another major creative reset, one capable of changing the direction of two of Paris fashion’s most prominent houses at once.
