Prada said “eat, sleep, rave, repeat” for Men’s SS25

Prada said “eat, sleep, rave, repeat” for Men’s SS25

by Robyn Pullen
6 min

Prada’s SS25 Menswear show was set against the backdrop of a sleek, white Project X, where kids partied in the kitchen, popped pills in the living room, and rifled through wardrobes upstairs, stealing pieces to take home with them. Walking the line between reality and imaginary, Prada’s collection fizzed with hallucinogens, combining psychedelic colour-schemes, shrunken hand-me-down silhouettes, and pieces that weren’t exactly what they seemed to create a sense of drug-fueled unrealness. Let’s escape into Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ SS25 house party, and lose ourselves in heavy bass, flashing lights, and iconic clothing for a while.

Up the path, into the rave

As we were welcomed into the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada on Sunday in dimly lit darkness, along with the likes of Damson Idris, Jeong Jae-hyun, Evan Peters, Venus Williams, Dave, and more of Prada’s house party’s guests, it wasn’t immediately apparent what the House’s new show space looked like. In only the past couple years, we’ve seen Prada’s Milan-based show location, the Fondazione Prada, decked out with walls of slime and transformed into an office above a vibrant terrarium, so the anticipation around what Prada would do with the space for Men’s SS25 was big.

Ahead of the show, Prada took to its socials to tease the new set of its Men’s SS25 show location, revealing shots of a curved, white runway winding through the room. And, whilst the space was low lit on arrival, a heavy, techno bass filled the darkness, which we quickly realised was booming from the windows of a small, white house in the corner, flashing with blue strobes. Like watching your neighbours house party from across the road, we knew immediately that inside that little rave house was where we all wanted to be.

Wearing somebody else’s clothes

The show then opened, and the first model walked out from the reverberating techno house and down Prada’s winding walkway, wearing a simple, shrunken look featuring a fitted, V-neck black jumper that was ever so subtly cropped, and a low-rise pair of suit trousers with classic creasing. The slight crop of the jumper and low rise of the trousers combined to reveal a slither of midriff around the models’ waist, a theme that was repeated throughout the collection at the hem of cropped shirts and shrunken cardigans.

As Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ have commented on the collection, “we wanted to create clothes that have lived a life, that are alive in themselves.” We’ve seen the aesthetic of “clothing borrowed” reflected in Prada’s designs before, and this theme of shrunken silhouettes was a direct reference to that. As Prada’s show notes explained: “Pieces stolen from father or mother sit differently on the body.” One of Prada’s biggest priorities is that it creates clothing to be loved, shared, and eventually passed on.

Last year’s shirts and band tees

This idea of borrowed clothing is also seen in the form of a selection of tailored shirts with ruffled, creased collars and wrist cuffs, a collision of Raf’s love of classic masculine styles and Miuccia’s love of subverting them. The unironed style of the shirts almost makes it feel as though they’ve been dug out from the back of someone else’s wardrobe, pretty creased but equally well-loved.

Amongst the creased up shirts on Prada’s runway, plenty of models wore band tee style tops detailed with graphics of abstract Bernard Buffet paintings, which matched the bold, clubby atmosphere of the space. Emulating the style of a classic concert tee, the tops added a youthful yet vintage touch to many of Prada’s looks, layered beneath jumpsuits and jackets in a similarly “borrowed” fashion. 

Sneakers, bags, and baggies

The ‘Prada Man’ is the type of guy you’ll find upstairs at a house party, tripping on pills as he digs through the back of someone else’s wardrobe.  From his mate’s dad’s closet, Prada Menswear stole a pair of classic, leather loafers with fringe detailing and buckles on top; from his older sister’s room, he nicked a pair of flats with steel toe caps, which glinted silver on the runway; and from his mate’s younger brother’s cupboards, he borrowed chunky sneakers with ridged soles and in bright, nostalgic colourways. He’s the type of guy to leave the rave with a hefty haul.

Other accessories swiped from the host’s parents’ room included a selection of sleek, leather handle bags with belts adorning their top hem, velour square duffle bags in bright yellow and toxic green, and rucksacks with contrast coloured zips decorating their fronts. Looks were also accessorised with an iconic range of shades in wide, visor-style silhouettes, which were detailed with a variety of images on their lenses, from ​​scenic landscapes to bumping raves.

Boiler suits to skydive in

Finally, at FW24, Prada Men’s models were office workers by day and swimmers by night (hence the swim caps worn by many of the models), but at SS25 the brand’s models took on a new after-work hobby: skydiving. The dual-zip boiler suits in bright red and blue that closed the show were evocative of the fits worn by daredevils that throw themselves from planes, adding a sportswear touch to the collection, juxtaposing its Raf-esque use of smart tailoring and classic silhouettes.

Our main takeaway from Prada’s SS25 Menswear show – aside from the fact that its collections just keep getting more youthful, more relevant, and more elevated – is that partying with design duo Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ would be another kind of trip. The kind that leaves you waking up in a dishevelled, mis-matched variety of clothing (none of which belongs to you), wondering what the h*ll happened last night and when you’ll get the chance to do it again.

Featured image via Culted©

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