Moschino SS25 was a fried egg-fueled escape from the office

Moschino SS25 was a fried egg-fueled escape from the office

by Ollie Cox
5 min

Adrian Appiolaza just presented his Moschino Women’s Resort 2025 and Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collections, kicking off Milan Fashion Week with a playful look back at the Maison’s history and a tale of office escapism. It saw a menswear debut from the House’s Creative Director, who joined the label in January, and sneaky references to Franco Moschino’s historic designs peppered throughout—gold star for you if you spotted them.   

The collection visually explored the move from urban chaos to tranquil paradise, aided by an early backing track of city noise and squealing sirens as rigid office dress codes were pulled apart. Appiolaza’s merging of Women’s Resort and Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collections melded genders and tradition to leave his mark on the iconic Italian House. 

For the full rundown on Appiolaza’s archival gestures, funky food accessories, and menswear debut, keep reading for the good stuff. 

A menswear moment
Moschino ©

In case we hadn’t said it enough above, we’re going to say it again. In January, Appiolaza designed a collection within a month of being appointed following the untimely passing of former Creative Director Davide Renne. What we got in his debut menswear collection was a healthy mix of Franco Moschino’s signature playfulness, seen across football-embroidered knits, smiley sweaters, and tongue-in-cheek takes on office accessories, blended with an understanding of traditional tailoring, seen in opening looks, comprising trench coats worn with pastel blue shirts, and ties, with some commuter-friendly sneakers in the mix to pare things back. 

Edible accessories 
Moschino ©

When it comes to edible accessories, Moschino means business. Previous highlights have included baguette bags (and not those of another Italian fashion House) and Mcdonald’s Happy Meal Happy Meal Box-inspired handbags. This time around, we got Euros-ready footie fits complimented by pizza clutch bags (which complemented sauce-stained white tops), croissant necklaces, and watermelon clutches. The foodie theme was also extended into fried egg-style brooches and printed shirts, offering a wearable interpretation of the speedily eaten scran you inhale before the commute. 

Carnations on the catwalk
Moschino ©

If you’re clued up on carnations, you will probably know that they’re the national flower of Spain. If, like us, you don’t know your dahlia from your Daphne, listen up. Franco Moschino was well into Spanish culture, so much so that he printed the flowers onto dresses. For SS25, Appiolaza revived the print, applying it to dresses, creating a tension between the natural and man-made world, and aiding with the escapist tale told through the collection. 

A heart-shaped comeback
Moschino ©

The heart-shaped purse is one of Franco Moschino’s most revered designs, famously housing a baguette on the Spring/Summer 1994 runway. As well as appearing in handbag size in a striking yellow shade, the loved-up carrier was super-sized in the show’s opening look, where a trench and cap-clad model carried a heart-shaped briefcase by his side. The look followed Appiolaza’s revival of the bag on his FW24 runway, marking his menswear collection with the same archival underpinnings. 

Stationary chic 
Moschino ©

As part of Adrian Appiolaza’s two fingers to the 9-5, office accessories could be seen adorning relaxed suiting, with post-it notes, nametags, paper clips and pens jingling down the catwalk. While a subtle showing of his tailoring strength was visible beneath the accessorisation, it was actually a nod to Franco Moschino’s Spring/Summer 1992 “Survival” jacket, which juxtaposed military utilitarianism self-care staples such as blush, mirrors, cuticle cutters, and nail polish. Top marks if you spotted this. 

Out of office 

The symbolic “OOO” email was in full effect as miniature aeroplane brooches were applied to lapels and topped close-fitting skull caps. Later, some Escape To The Country-esque goose prints arrived on full-length dresses, turning womenswear looks into canvases. Straw hats and flowing white dresses oozed with “I’m not answering this until Monday” ease as runway protagonists finally found their way out of the rat race. 

More on Culted 

See: Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino FW24 was an ode to the brand’s legacy

See: Ye at Acne, Doja in Chrome Hearts & more good sh*t this week

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