Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino FW24 was an ode to the brand’s legacy

Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino FW24 was an ode to the brand’s legacy

by Robyn Pullen
4 min

For Fall/Winter 2024, Moschino entered an era of relaxed, confident refinement; one that might feel refreshingly new to the brand but is actually far from unfamiliar. Showing last night in Milan, Moschino’s latest collection was current without losing sight of its past, considering that the entire collection was dedicated to its own archives and Moschino’s founder himself, Franco Moschino.

Before the show had even begun, a buzz was already circulating on the subject of Mochino’s recent (and we mean recent, given he himself was apparently only made aware of his new role three weeks ago) appointment of Adrian Appiolaza as the new Creative Director to the Italian luxury brand. Since Jeremy Scott departed from Moschino in March 2023, the brand hasn’t had a new direction established by one single Creative Director, so all eyes were on what Adrian Appiolaza would present this season.

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Whilst it certainly didn’t lack direction, Moschino’s SS24 collection was designed by a collaborative group of four designers in total, who each presented a different ‘Act’ of the show. Then, David Renne, the designer who was appointed Creative Director in November, sadly passed away only nine days into his tenure at Moschino, before he could create his first collection. Essentially, the anticipation of a new Creative Director at Moschino has been building for a while. … until now.

At Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, we saw Appiolaza shed Jeremy Scott’s “camp to the max” aesthetic – one that Moschino has become widely recognised for in recent years – for a new direction that’s far more wearable. Fans of the brand who remember Jeremy Scott’s Spring 2015 “Barbie-inspired” collection or his Fall 2014 “McDonalds” Ready-to-Wear, featuring Happy Meal inspired handbags, might have been surprised at this season’s casual nature. But the reality is that it’s not a digression from Moschino; in fact, Adrian Appiolaza delved into the archives for his inspiration.

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Given Appiolaza’s prior experience at brands including Alexander McQueen, Chloé by Phoebe Philo, Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs, and most recently, LOEWE, it’s no surprise that he naturally veers towards luxury, elevated, and exceptionally curated designs. For Moschino’s FW24 collection, this was evident in every look. 

From structured outerwear, like the staple beige trench coat which opened the show, to tailored suits and thoughtful layering, wearable pieces were Moschino’s bread and butter at FW24. Ruffled skirts in bright red and lilac and shirts made entirely from ties added a playful touch to a collection that at its base was extremely refined.

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The quirkiness that crowds know and love from Moschino was still easily identifiable though, seen in the baguettes carried by the first model who walked, the faux lingerie printed onto silk shirts and skirts, polka dots which were dotted throughout, and a collaboration with Smiley printed on bags.

For Fall/Winter 2024, Adrian Appiolaza has transformed Moschino from a House recognised primarily for its unabashed approach to “camp,” into a brand that’s curated, elevated, and more than anything else, wearable. If this is Moschino’s new direction, we’re excited to see more. 

All images are via Moschino ©

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