Nicholas Daley, 2020 LVMH Finalist, has shown his new collection ‘Blue Quilt’ at London Fashion Week. Known for always designing with his dual Scottish-Jamaican heritage in mind, Daley has been hailed as one of the most exciting menswear designers on the scene, consistently producing collections with a strong cultural narrative. Graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2013, one of the brand’s central tenets is that everything is designed and made within the UK, indicative of Daley’s emphasis on sustainability and craftsmanship that inform all of his collections.
For FW21, Daley explored the transatlantic legacy of quilting in the deep south. Sonically, it drew on references from folk greats Richie Havens and Davey Graham whilst also looking forward to contemporary artists such as Lianne La Havas and Caleb Kunle. Daley also took inspiration from the contemporary quilt artist Michael Thorpe, operating primarily in New York and who’s artworks explore their own heritage as well as a range of colours and textures. With Thorpe and sustainability in mind, Daley called on UK quilt specialists to up-cycle fabrics used in past collections, and create unique, new styles.
On the runway, hand-dyed dead stock military scarves and knitwear alluded to Daley’s preoccupation with the 70s folk era, and added vibrancy to the collection’s colourway. A purpose-designed striped linen pattern (in collaboration with a distinguished Wexford weaver) was showcased and adapted into multiple different garments, including a six-pocket parka and oversized raincoat.
Daley also heavily utilised jersey, showing unique woven jacquards and striped rib details upon a tracksuit inspired by iconic musical characters from the folk blues world.
Daley’s continued emphasis on community, craftsmanship and culture is evident; fore-fronting his own ethos of promoting culturally significant moments through his designs. Along with the considered and varied musical reference points and collaborations, Daley delivered an authentic and honest story at London Fashion Week.
Watch the full film below.