Why are we so obsessed with JORDANLUCA’s “Pee-Stained” Jeans? 

Why are we so obsessed with JORDANLUCA’s “Pee-Stained” Jeans? 

by Ollie Cox
4 min

Over the weekend, London label JORDANLUCA was picked up by international press outlets, including TMZ and the New York Post, even getting a daytime TV debut on ITV’s Lorraine show. But unlike its usual coverage, which highlights the Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto-helmed brand’s escapist sartorial subversions, one particular item from JORDANLUCA’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection caused a stir: a pair of “Pee-Stained” Jeans. 

And, while nobody talks about the lack of loos at Fashion Week, this wasn’t a happy accident. JORDANLUCA’s dirty denim was a viral exploration of fetishistic capitalism, and was quickly picked up by outlets like the Daily Mail, which grappled with the idea that people would pay for pissy pants–which they do, and now they’re sold out. In today’s fashion landscape, a viral moment can go a long way in ensuring people remember a brand’s collection – just take a look at Bella Hadid’s spray-on Coperni dress. 

The jeans are typically JORDANLUCA, being straight-fitting, lapping the collar of the brand’s angular Zephyr Boots, and sitting perfectly in a collection that merged sexed-up sportswear and strong tailoring. FW23 saw the brand unveil a collaboration with British athletic label Lonsdale, which leaned into queer culture with its stacked waistband boxers, loose-fitting jersey shorts, and an unzipped floor-length puffer, semi-concealing sexual desire, and visceral passion. The “Pee-Stained” Jeans fit perfectly in the JORDANLUCA world, where traditional Italian tailoring is met with the energy of the UK capital. Leather pants featured horizontal easy-access zippers, and spiked leather took centre stage during its FW24 presentation, which injected some well-appreciated sex appeal into the Milanese menswear season. 

JORDANLUCA©

But it isn’t just JORDANLUCA that has put stained denim front and centre. In 2020, Gucci caused a stir with its grass-stained jeans, which, with a price tag of £600, came with marks to mirror the stains you might encounter if you were gardening … or up to no good in the garden. The launch was picked up by the Daily Mail, who published an article using the headline, “Gucci unveils £600 jeans with fake GRASS STAINS on the knees as part of its ‘grungy’ new collection.” While we don’t understand why anyone could be so enraged by grass stains, the article serves as a shining example of how pre-battered clobber boosts engagement for brands at any end of the fashion spectrum. 

Fellow London-based label Di Petsa has also included soaked jeans in its offering, which aims to explore female sexuality and feelings around the female body. While contributing to a different conversation, Di Petsa’s wet denim shows the power that clothing can have outside of runways and trend cycles, directly speaking to an everyday reality. 

It’s not just liquids that have contributed to lively designer discussions. Back in 2022, Balenciaga dropped a pair of battered sneakers, with wear marks that mirrored sweat stains, rips to its canvas upper and laces, and DIY-esque logo branding. These sneakers, thanks to their £1,850 price tag, left people fuming. Although some Demna apologists argued that it was part of a critique on capitalism, which has informed the Georgian designer’s output, including a £1,400 “Chips Bag” crafted from luxury leather. 

Whether you’re a piss-soaked pant apologist or scratching your head at how people could spend so much money on a pair of dirty jeans, JORDANLUCA’s virality is undeniable. In a time when fashion strives to appeal beyond products, a stained crotch appears to be the way to go. 

Featured image via JORDANLUCA©

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