The Milan Fashion Week crowd has mixed feelings about Ferrari: some race to conclusions, others spin around the idea of who it’s really for, while others make laps around it, praising the Italian brand’s ability to create clothing that goes beyond merchandise. When it comes to actually making fashion, Ferrari and its Creative Director, Rocco Iannone, charge ahead of the competition – and this is evident with its Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
Ferrari’s latest collection positions itself in pole position, as if to say Iannone has found his niche, groove, and lane in the fashion world with the brand. The collection explored the theme of “Power of Desire,” and in doing so, examined how “the clothes in this collection are the talismans of all those desires that it is so often so difficult to know and tame.” According to the show notes, Iannone continues, “it is thanks to them that each of them, from the smallest to the largest, from the craziest to the most moderate, can become, at least for a fleeting moment, flesh of our flesh.”
And when it comes to the topic of flesh – it made quite the impact. Sheer knitwear added a voyeuristic eye to jumpers and shorts, revealing Ferrari-branded underwear and tighty whities underneath. Crisp white leather created a sharp contrast between the coat it fashioned and the model who donned it, appearing as though the model had hastily wrapped himself up in the coat.
White was a prevalent theme for Ferrari, leaving the brand with nowhere to conceal itself. Needless to say, Ferrari executed it masterfully with an automotive influence, showcasing gloves that extended past the elbows, cropped moto jackets, and wide, baggy trousers that elevated the humble cargo pant to luxurious heights.
In other aspects, the leather typically found in a Ferrari car underwent transformation into high-end fashion designs, such as a butter-soft blush rose-hued boiler suit, inspired by the paddocks. After a series of sheer knits came denim, also influenced by motorsport attire with elements featuring padding and quilted stitching.
But, of course, it wouldn’t be Ferrari without a splash of red. The colour made frequent appearances, saturating futuristic shield sunglasses in its Rosso Corsa candescence. It served as the perfect contrast to blue nylon overalls, a ribbed knit dress paired with matching pantaboots, and the shoulder pad-adorned three-quarter-zip jacket.
Ferrari’s crescendo came with its Rosso Corsa carousel: here, models exclusively wore red, emphasising that this is indeed the origin of the brand. Thick red leather enveloped a model as she walked around the circular runway in an asymmetrical skirt and a biker jacket, followed by another model wearing overalls in the same iconic leather.
Ferrari SS24 marked a genuine moment for the brand. It has established its place in the world of fashion, standing as a fully-fledged House alongside other greats.
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See: MM6 Maison Margiela SS24.