Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2024 is here, and it shows another switch in direction for the Jonny Johansson-founded Stockholm-based imprint. Welcoming everyone from Kylie Jenner and Rosalía to Emma Chamberlain and Shygirl, it’s clear to see that Acne Studios is quickly becoming a bit of an it-girl brand — evidenced by its Kylie Jenner and Rosalía campaigns.
But over the last few seasons, Acne Studios has been changing its aesthetic like the wind. SS23 served cutesy cottagecore Scandi vibes, fit for a Midsommer picnic in the park thanks to its pastel rainbow palette and bow aplliqués. FW23 was darker, sexier, but still felt like a collection for the same girl that adored SS23. It was more torn up and moody, layered, and pushed the Swedish brand into a slightly more daring realm.
And before we get into what SS24 was, please remember: Acne Studios is also a brand famed for beanies with faces on it, excellent jeans, and big scarves.
So, SS24 then. Is Acne Studios in its Balenciaga era now, because this was what it was giving.
There’s nothing wrong with this. In fact, someone has to do it, seeing Balenciaga is moving away from the Demna-fication of itself. But is this Acne Studios? The brand often explored trippy hippy prints on silky two pieces, presented dressing gown coats in grandma-approved fabrics, and stuck to its fairy tale mystique for a number of years.
If this is Acne Studios, we’re somewhat here for it. Hits of the seasonal showcases included Shygirl-approved studded jeans, a large creased metal box bag, and the bouclé top that used its texture to contrast the soft billowing cotton beneath.
Likewise, crinkled grey leather coats that were narrow from top to bottom, white cotton dresses detailed with strands that floated in the wind, and warped sheer chequered dresses all made an appearance, instilling that Acne Studios sensibility we know and love.
On the contrary, space age visor sunglasses (à la Miss Jenner), KimYe-era grey sweater jumpsuits (particularly the hooded version), hourglass silhouette LBDs with a sculptural hemline, and skewed waistlines on suit trousers worn with a tank top all felt surprisingly jarred in the brand’s world.
There is a place for it in one’s wardrobe, but do we need this again? At times, Acne Studios SS24 proved how to blend this avant-garde nuance with its loved quirkiness: bags attached to the hips of leather mini skirts and the chest of a suede mini dress were the perfect combination of futurism and playfulness.
Slouchy bags on chrome chains, triangular heels, wrap sunnies, a collarless leather jacket and underwear that almost passed as shorts: less so.
Do not get it twisted, this was Acne Studios to a tee — the set was minimal, the disco ball backdrop was shattered, and the showgoers were on brand. Only, if there was more melding of the two clear themes, it might have felt like a more cohesive collection.
More on Culted