Stefan Djokic’s SS22 collection arrives as a tasteful development to his design philosophies cultivated throughout his MA at Central Saint Martins, delivering an abstract, conceptual investigation on masculinity through the manipulation of male identity with the manipulation of cut, material and silhouettes. The ex-Lanvin designer presents the collection for London Fashion Week in video format, with a claustrophobic, dark, smoky room filled with lighting equipment as the setting for a diverse crop of models in unique garments and silhouettes. The videography and sound production build upon this disruptive, uncomfortable setting; fast-sweeping shots doing full 360-degree spins around the cast open up for a comprehensive yet partially obscured view of the collection. A punchy sonic experience by Pentu is the final inclusion for what is all-in-all a well rounded, cohesive debut to London Fashion Week.
Djokic’s looks are subtly lewd and raunchy, ranging from tailored looks to deconstructed, oversized waistcoats and blazers to sports jackets and multiple looks made up of just briefs and dress shoes. “A deviated masculinity” is the perfect slogan for the collection, with Djokic’s efforts coming as a tasteful development to his debut runway show in 2019 at the Kings Cross institution’s event – this ongoing investigation of masculinity and identity is timely and well thought out.
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