What do you mean there was no black at Saint Laurent FW25?
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What do you mean there was no black at Saint Laurent FW25?

PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 11: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Bella Hadid walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 11, 2025 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)

If you were to think about Saint Laurent, one of your first three thoughts would’ve probably been the colour black and how synonymous it’s become for the brand with every era it’s been through. Well, this season, Anthony Vaccarello must’ve thought “f*ck expectations” and went against all odds with a collection that had everything but black. 

It was a weird feeling to see colourful looks start the show and never really end or switch up because, as a watcher of Saint Laurent, you’re expecting a switch up to monochromatic tones that never came. Instead, more vibrant tones like fuschia and green in various shades turned to muted oranges and yellows that would begin to blend into the moody backdrop.  Floral and cheetah patterns had their moment too, with dark brown hues all over the last looks that finally showed signs of Saint Laurent’s sweetspot. 

What do you mean there was no black at Saint Laurent FW25?
What do you mean there was no black at Saint Laurent FW25?

The silhouettes stayed signature Vaccarello tho, with oversized power shoulders in almost every look and high, funnel necks wherever possible. Knee-length pencil skirts proved that the office siren movement carries on and silk eveningwear continues to be a favourite of Vaccarello’s for a sexy, sensual touch. There was no love lost for his favoured leather, either, with extended blouson jackets that feature a contrasting leather tie-up belt and boyfriend-sized flight jackets that give off a chic, borrowed vibe. You can’t forget the overly puffed-up skirts that ended off the show in dramatic fashion.

What do you mean there was no black at Saint Laurent FW25?
What do you mean there was no black at Saint Laurent FW25?

Like it or not, you can’t deny that Vaccarello knows what he’s doing. Whether it was a statement of intent to prove he can do colour as well as anyone else or a distraction to the dark, political climate of the world, it’s all up in the air. What we do know, though, is that it was a mulit-coloured twist in the wonderful world of Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Lauren and he painted the town every colour he could think of. 

Featured images via Getty©

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JJ
Words by Jotaro Joden

Our Legacy and Hedi Slimane enthusiast