After announcing Sabato De Sarno’s exit from the house almost three weeks ago, the Gucci Design Studio pulled through with an impressive collection in the absence of a creative director. With mixed reactions about the designer’s departure, this new show definitely would’ve silenced any doubters that the Italian heritage brand already had, proving that no one knows what’s best for the house better than they do.
Starting off the show with a beautiful live orchestra, as soon as the violins and cello started hitting, you knew how grand this occasion would be. The cinematic stage definitely added to the atmosphere too, with a double G stamped on the ground used as a runway for the models along with an immersive seating configuration that gave every audience member a unique view of the collection.
The first look really set the tone for what was to come from the show, with a fur jacket to start off the show - a real theme from this FW25 season. Another element from this look that would go on to show off the highlights from this collection were the purple and pale yellow hits on the bag, shoes and bralette - the two standout colours that replaced the emblematic Ancora red that De Sarno implemented into his Gucci. This look also presented us with a first view at the oversized Horesebit necklace that you’d see scattered across the whole collection as well as the pencil skirt - an embodying outfit for what’s to come.
Some of the highlights in the show include the ‘60s, Mary Quant-inspired looks with the prominence of the mini skirts and pencil skirts along with bold colour pairings and shorter sleeve lengths. It’s offset by some ‘70s references like the aviator-style specs and flared bottoms that give all the looks a little extra dimension and excitement.
The bags were another standout, with a fun fur iteration with an oversized Horsebit buckle as well as a weekender-style bag with a tonal monogram and the emblematic green and red stripe running through the middle. Why are the models ignoring the handles and holding the bag on its side (lol)?
What was interesting about the tailoring was not only the mod-like longer cuts of the blazers paired with the extra-long suit trousers but also the tonal look of it all - even down to the tie. It almost gave off a trompe l’oeil effect and emphasised the depth of the different layers in a clean, uninterrupted way.
The show (at least for the Women’s looks) ended off on a high note, with a plethora of sparkly sequins and fabrics that might be alluding to an optimistic future for the brand following De Sarno’s exit. With the design studio all coming out in unison to take a bow at the end, it was clear that the team that worked under both De Sarno and Alessandro Michele absorbed the DNA of both designers, with both of their design languages spilling onto this season to create a Frankenstein collection. Whatever happens, it seems like Gucci is in the safe hands of the design studio.
All featured image via Getty©
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