What do you get when you mix nudity with a Succession type beat? The Saint Laurent FW24 show

What do you get when you mix nudity with a Succession type beat? The Saint Laurent FW24 show

by Juliette Eleuterio
3 min

Anthony Vaccarello knows a thing or two about clothing, obviously, but for his Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2024 collection, the Creative Director posed an unexpected yet important question: what happens when the centrepiece of fashion is made invisible?

The Saint Laurent show was set inside a grandiose room that would soon echo the spectacle of the collection. A shiny and wet-looking black floor spread across two circular rooms, while the walls were draped in an emerald velvet damask, a nod to the Avenue Marceau salons, welcoming guests such as Rosé, Kate Moss, Lily Collins, Iris Law, and more. Without too much tardiness, the show commenced with a look that bared it all.

Transparency has always been key to the Maison, something Yves Saint Laurent himself has toyed with since the 1960s. Vaccarello brought back this signifier this season, through a series of tight-fitting silk dresses, more often than not in nude colours, blurring the lines between body and clothing. Sheer silk fabrics were also seen in a variety of clothing, ranging from burgundies to navy blues, in the shape of midi skirts, halter-neck dresses, and off-the-shoulder tops. 

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Boxy suits and conservatively-lengthy bottoms embody the classic appeal of Saint Laurent, but its approach in design and fabric nod to a more youthful and progressive aesthetic. For Vaccarello, one person in particular embodies this dichotomy of tradition versus modernity: Marilyn Monroe, and more specifically, her ‘naked’ gown look she wore during one of her final public appearances (yes, that’s the one Kim Kardashian wore to the 2022 Met Gala).

“Can purity be provocative?” the show notes asks. Indeed, the female body has been viewed and treated like an object of censorship, and still is to this day. Vaccarello doesn’t see it that way though: for him, the family body is beauty to be celebrated, even if it means compromising his own position.

There’s an inherent contradiction with see-through clothes: it defeats the entire purpose of clothing. A dilemma that Yves Saint Laurent was fascinated with, a passion shared with Vaccarello, functionality is thrown right out the window at Saint Laurent, for an assortment of pro-free-the-nippple garms that kept it classy.

Saint Laurent FW24 offered up a dream, one that paid homage to creative trailblazers and created a dreamscape where clothing and skin become one.

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