Concrete floors, walls filled with art you have so many questions about, and furniture scarce around mainly-empty rooms – it all seems very Rick Owens, for the very reason that the backdrop to his Fall/Winter 2024 show wasn’t the usual Palais de Tokyo, but his Parisian pad.
The designer’s homecoming show gave us a personal look into his home as models walked through decorative architraves of tall-standing door openings. More than just giving us a peek into his apartment, Rick Owens also dedicated the show to his hometown, with this collection called “Porterville.”
Tucked away between the Sierra Nevada mountains and the San Joaquin valley, Porterville is a small town in Southern California. Connected to some of California’s biggest national parks, Porterville finds itself stuck between nature and industry, with the town receiving industrial development between the late 1800s and early 1900s, after its gold findings in the mid 1800s attracted mass migration.
Just like Porterville, Rick Owens’ FW24 menswear collection showcased growth and enlargement, as form was heavily played with in his signature style. As per usual, Tyrone opened the show, this time shirtless, though a long-sleeve was seen around his waist, a bulbous necklace, and trousers with an emphasis on the calves which were blown up with rubber-pull boots – perhaps a nod to Rick’s gym goals.
One for the Opium boys was an oversized sweater with Porterville written on it, with the font echoing the garment’s droopy proportions. The collection continued to explore the deformed in a playful manner, through a series of triangle-imbued puffers, with geometric stitching. A couple in particular highlighted the evolution of Owens’ relationship with shoulders, with each season giving the designer the chance to go higher, wider, and wilder.
While the exaggerated calves definitely became a highlight of the show, the upper body wasn’t completely forgotten, as models donned capes and floor-dropping jackets. Later on, models stepped out wrapped in what looked like an XL blanket, creating a circular upper body not too dissimilar from The Fifth Element’s Mondoshawans.
Inflation fashion started having its moment around this time last year, with brands like Maison Margiela, Prada, and Coach giving us puffified versions of some of their signature products, while Jeremy Scott for Moschino and LOEWE gave us inflated garments. Rick Owens also got his hand on the trend with his Fall/Winter 2023 show, which included puffer-style shawls and other body-morphing puffed-out pieces. Evidently, inflation hasn’t improved.
An embodiment of the sombre, the decay, the grotesque the bizarre, and the beautiful, Owens continues to bless us with his alternative vision. Safe to say, Rick Owens really hit a home run with his “Porterville” collection.
Main image credit: Rick Owens ©
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