The aliens are coming and they’re all wearing Rick Owens FW24

The aliens are coming and they’re all wearing Rick Owens FW24

by Juliette Eleuterio
3 min

Echoing his latest menswear show, the Lord of Darkness Rick Owens dropped his usual Palais de Tokyo location for a much more intimate setting in his own Parisian apartment, once again, hosting three sets of shows, on day four of Paris Fashion Week.

Owens is known for his sinister approach to fashion, merging subculturally-informed dominating silhouettes with a colour palette that rarely strives from dark tones – with a few exceptions, including this season. 

For his Fall/Winter 2024 “Porterville” collection, Rick Owens stuck to his guns but rather than conjuring up a priest’s most feared feral creature straight out of Berghain, the designer found his muse in another worldly territory, with alien-esque looks strutting down the runway, where models showed themselves with electrified hair and a full face of white makeup, accompanied by entrancing and hypnosis-inducing sounds.

The Brancusi boots

For his men’s show last month, Rick Owens invited the experimental London-based designer Straytukay to create the viral inflatable boots that dominated the runway. The architecturally-inspired boots made a comeback this season, appearing in tones of taupe, black, off-white, pink, khaki, and more, once again tapping into the designer’s love of shapeshifting and boundary-pushing design silhouettes for a look that seems to have come straight out of the outer cosmos.

To add some novelty into the mix, Rick Owens presented a new iteration of the boot titled the “Brancusi” boot. This new pair features straight-forward protruding elements, creating a stacked effect we know the Rick stans will be sacrificing their life savings to cop.

The puffed-out extensions

For the past few seasons, the Lord of Darkness has found his new favourite fabric to experiment with: puffers. In his men’s FW24 collection, we saw puffers used to extend parts of the human body, morphing it into a humanoid entity from Planet Zorg. This approach was continued into the womenswear show, further lending itself to an interplanetary wardrobe.

One model was seen wearing a criss-cross asymmetrical khaki puffer top, what we’d imagine a life vest to look like on a super-speedy UFO. We also saw the 3D geometrical zipper jacket first introduced in the men’s collection, this time around in a salmon pink, while a pair of one quarter-sleeve puffers were added to a model’s shoulders, an area has been known to play around with throughout his career.

The shoulders were shouldering

Speaking of shoulders, Rick Owens served up a monstrous allure with his distorted and extended shoulders, reminiscent of devilish horns. When we say shoulder pads, this is what we want to be seeing.

Some jackets boasted shoulders that shot straight up, others had flat wing-like extensions, while some flat out looked like bricks had been used as shoulder pads. We’ve seen Owens play with shoulders immensely so within his recent seasons, toying with that idea of the body’s natural form versus its extension through clothing.

Main image credit: Rick Owens ©

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