Acne Studios is changing gears and putting on new tires for FW24

Acne Studios is changing gears and putting on new tires for FW24

by Juliette Eleuterio
4 min

Acne Studios is in its rebranding era, and this Fall/Winter 2024 show put its edgier, darker, more provocative aesthetic to the forefront, where leather-clad clothing and thrones made out of old tire scraps took over the runway. The Jonny Johansson-founded Swedish brand has come a long way since its smiley-face beanie and big scarf days, stepping into the shoes of an it girl brand, and this season was no different.

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Obviously, no brand could claim to be hot sh*t if it weren’t for its star-studded showgoers. This season, Acne Studios welcomed Emily Ratajkowski, further cementing that it girl status. We also saw ILLIT band members Yunah, Minju, Moka, Wonhee, and Iroha, as well as Johnny Suh, Willow Smith, Mia Khalifa, and Gigi Goode, filling up the show space with the young and famous, who embody that new Acne Studios image.

Leather here, leather there, leather everywhere
Acne Studios ©

This collection loved leather, could you tell? Immediately stepping into the show space, old tire scrapes made up the middle seating, some in throne-like dispositions, others in backless couch forms. These “Chairs in Rubber” (2001) were actually created by the Estonian sculptor artist, Villu Jaanisoo, utilising recycled tires.

“What interests me about working with tyres is the certain ‘inner resistance’ of this material,” explains Jaanisoo, “it requires a lot of physical as well as mental force to shape them; the resistance that exists in each tyre makes the surface of the sculpture alive, almost baroque.” This served as the perfect set up for what was to come: a show made to dress the resilient woman.

Okay now leather on the clothing
Acne Studios ©

Most of us associated Acne Studios with its excellent craft in regards to denim, but the Swedish brand actually has ties to leather that goes way back. Back in the 90s, one of Acne Studios’ very first shows was called “Leather and Denim,” something Johansson thinks “belong together.”

This season, leather took on a futuristic look sculpted, fitted dresses with exaggerated cups, motorsport-like bodysuits, and extra high-collar jackets. That doesn’t mean denim was completely discarded. Instead, it was subtly placed, peeking from the underneath, such as on a long-winded, button-down leather coat that featured denim lining, peeking from its elongated tail.

More sculpture, more height, more weight
Acne Studios ©

The fast paced untz untz that reverberated through the show space only accentuated this idea of speed and power. Pieces such as the opening short yet bulky faux fur jacket commanded your attention, while cropped woollen jumpers paired with stacked leather skirts nodded to that Swedish aesthetic while keeping in tune with the new era of Acne Studios.

Pushing the envelope even further, really said “sculpture” and ran with it, presenting, in two colourways, a ballet-inspired bodice gown where an asymmetrical crinoline was placed under the lower half’s draped fabric, creating a look that emulated the idea of the old versus the new, the traditional rethought, repackaged, and represented, just as Acne Studios is doing to its own brand right now.

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