Inside Ib Kamara‘s FW24 vision for Off-White™

Inside Ib Kamara‘s FW24 vision for Off-White™

by Ollie Cox
4 min

Ibrahim Kamara just presented his third collection for Off-White™ for Fall/Winter 2024, “Black by Popular Demand.” It continued the legacy built up by Virgil Abloh and hammered home what Off-White™ does well, all while exemplifying Kamara’s strength in his role as Art and Image Director. 

Attracting a star-studded set of showgoers, including Tyga, Serena Williams, Maya Jama, and more, Kamara’s popularity as both a fashion editor and designer was clear to see. Since being founded in 2012, Off-White™ has moved beyond the runway and into a broader cultural discourse, infiltrating the wider zeitgeist through collaborations with athletes, artists and musicians, as well as co-designed pieces with IKEA and Nike. 

Read what we made of the show below. 

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Lots of Lime

The show kicked things off with a delicate take on military dress, as cargo-meets corporate jackets arrived in olive green and black hues. A vibrant green fur trim collar was oversized, nearly covering its wearers’ shoulders and matched detailing found on the bottom of jackets. 

Lime green continued to punctuate the collection with an energetic glow as it found its way into the lining of jackets and the piping of skirts. Tailored overcoats intersected with cropped padded jackets, which featured a poncho-like relaxed collar worn with distressed denim, showcasing lime-green yarn. 

Patterns continued to permeate the womenswear offering, seen through floral patterns which adorned sleeveless shirts and trousers, anchored with muted black and white striped detailing. Later we saw frayed detailing on overcoats and leather jackets before it progressed to include neon fur jackets, and rounding out with a strapless evening dress. 

A Continuation of Virgil’s legacy 

When it came to menswear, Kamara got the memo. Out of the gate, we got beige deconstructed, tailored jackets paired with tasselled cargo trousers. The same reductionist approach was applied to leather jackets finished with star appliques. 

Today’s collection felt like a Kamara-led combing of Virgil Abloh’s earlier streetwear endeavours reimaged on the runway. Stars were prominent throughout the collection, featuring on hoodies, baggy pants, and pillow-like shoulder bags. We saw a continuation of the lime-green theme seen earlier in exaggerated plush trapper hats and fur-trim bomber jackets. Additional pops of colour came in the form of black and purple stripe detailing, in looks which nodded to streetwear’s early days. Before becoming Off-White™, the Virgil Abloh-helmed label went under the Pyrex Vision umbrella, which pioneered an aesthetic that saw flannels worn as jerseys and cemented in streetwear culture, quickly becoming a mainstay for the A$AP Mob, among other tastemakers. 

Off-White™’s streetwear beginnings were seen through basketball bags and sneakers, which featured “autograph here” branding on the toe. The use of quotation marks reflected a continuation of Abloh’s design legacy, with the literary device becoming a signature of the Off-White™ brand. These quotation marks saw Abloh, and now Kamara, play with irony, altering how an item is perceived. In this instance, the irony was pointed at the fascination we have with sports stars signing shoes, something which Abloh later found himself doing later in his career, thanks to the success of his Nike collaborations. 

Stars on the runway 

Today’s show didn’t just see the stars attend the show, but walk it too. UK rapper Unknown T joined Black Sherif to walk on the runway, as well as British designer Mowalowla Ogunlesi. This decision feels collaborative and reflects Off-White™’s appeal in the realms of music and its influence in fashion. The decision to work collaboratively with fellow creatives is something Off-White™ founder Virgil Abloh did throughout his career and was continued on the brand’s FW24 runway. 

More on Culted 

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