Kicking off the second round of fashion month proceedings was New York – the city showing up and out this week with a handful of catwalk shows that made headlines. From Eckhaus Latta debuting its AW22 collection in the aisles of Essex market to Julia Fox announcing her breakup and making her runway debut all in one afternoon – we’re breaking down the moments not to be missed.
KHAITE
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Khaite, known for the luxury, stylised but minimal garments, went Rock ‘n’ Roll for AW22. Drawing on leather, dark colour palettes and a soundtrack of 70s rock songs, the brand kept things fresh by adding modern design motifs to a heavily nostalgia-infused collection. It was this contradiction on which the collection operated: past and present, old and new. The result? A cohesive, impressive collection that managed to incorporate everything from delicate lilac draping to dramatic black sweeped silhouettes.
SHAYNE OLIVER
Shayne Oliver said f*** tradition, hosting a 3-day experimental event in lieu of a standard fashion show for this season. Hosted by Oliver’s multidisciplinary creative studio Anonymous Club, the event was thrown to showcase his new eponymous label, as well as introduce the Anonymous Club as an expansive platform for artistic collaboration.
On Thursday was a ceremony honouring Shayne’s mentor Andre Walker, and a musical tribute to Virgil Abloh. Friday was a preview of Shayne’s new label, which saw models draped in sensual, spiky and outlandish garments accompanied by exaggerated, elongated footwear.
ECKHAUS LATTA
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No brand is as at home in NYC as Eckhaus Latta – and their presentation for AW22 proved it. Creative directors Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta opted for a subtle palette of majority earth tones, livened up with splashes of silver glitter on their models’ faces. There was a palpable sense of celebration, too, namely for the brand’s tenth anniversary. The show took place in the former Essex Market at Essex and Delancey on the Lower East Side of the city, which felt fitting for the brand which has developed its reputation over the last decade to become an NYC staple.
Highlights from the collection included a suit with webbing detail, worn by previous model / intern Aria Dean, a printed turtleneck and deep blue sheer dress. Strutting through the aisles of the market, Eckhaus Latta presented a confident, patriotic and innovative collection this season.
AREA
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Area said craftsmanship and excellence in the club for AW22. Telling Vogue that the collection draws nightlife, carnival and “showgirls”, creative director Piotr Panszczyk elaborated that “showgirls aren’t just about being pretty. It’s political; it’s about their bodies—and they are tough.” Collection highlights were, well, everything: crystals, beads and sequins took precedence, and tracksuits were given fur trimming. It’s the ultimate collection for party girls, as it always has been but now the vision has been honed.
LAQUAN SMITH
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The most striking thing about the LaQuan Smith show was its energy. Oh, and Julia Fox. Delivering a masterclass in cut outs, tailoring and glamour, LaQuan Smith AW22 captured the attention of the audience and wider world – despite starting an hour late. Highlights included a blue fur-leather two piece (cropped jacket and mini skirt) alongside black leotards with considered cutouts.
However, you’ve probably seen the LaQuan Smith show all over your feeds because of Julia Fox – who made her modelling debut for the designer on the same day that she announced it was over with Ye. I guess the romance of Paris Fashion Week didn’t make it across the pond.
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