On the first full day of Paris Fashion Week, Nanushka presented its AW22 collection in the Palais Garnier – with the grandeur of the surroundings setting the tone for a collection of opulence. Entitled ‘Industrial Craft’, the collection is said to be a product of founder and creative director Sandra Sandor’s ongoing mantra – “that if a garment is designed to function well, it will, by definition, be beautiful”.
The collection itself felt expansive, yet also cohesive in its offerings. More commercially minded garments such as brown leather trenches sat amongst longer iterations of Nanushka’s famous black puffer jacket. Elsewhere, oversized suits were cinched in with seatbelt-style belts, and featured leather pocket detailing.
Models rotated on spinning plinths, showing the audience a 360 view of the garments in all their glory. A look that took particularly well to this approach was a blue-grey silk satin duster coat, paired with straight legged trousers of the same material, and a blue knitted balaclava. Other standout looks included a pair of brown corduroy dungarees, layered over a cream cable knit jumper-balaclava hybrid – with matching mittens, of course.
Later in the show, we saw a head-to-toe forest green vegan leather look, as well as a checked brown and cream blanket, paired with perennially-cool sunglasses. In keeping with the same shiny texture, the brand also displayed a shacket and trouser two piece, in a brown snakeskin print.
Footwear was varied: for womenswear, Nanushka drew on the kitten heel. For menswear, we saw various colourways of the ‘sluffer’ – an unfortunately, but aptly named hybrid of slipper and puffer. Dangling buttons, ceramic detailing and decorative crochet-stitching showcased a renewed focus on creative hardware for the brand.
Presenting in the shadow of the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war, Nanushka’s presentation was set to live music from Brussels-based classical group Echo Collective, who played the country’s national anthem whilst the show went on. Taking the inferences further, the models’ makeup was primarily in yellow and blue, to represent the Ukrainian flag.
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