Every year, P.L.N. is the dark horse of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Scratch the clean girl Scandinavian aesthetic, with P.L.N it’s everything black leather, deformed shapes and techwear as if the whole crew was holding a one way ticket to Berlin. For SS24, designer Peter Lundvald Nielsen pushed the envelope even further, disconfiguring the models with his pieces.
For its “COLLECTION IIII”, P.L.N. saw red, at least with the blood-splattered effect seen on the white runway in the shape of a tire. The showspace was also illuminated by a row of white strobe lights, slightly flickering to give the ambience of an late-night abandoned hospital, a clinical overtone contrasting last season’s dark-lit, night club vibe.
As the first model walked out, the tone was set: P.L.N. was getting even weirder with this one, in the best way possible. A model walked out with a fitted black top with faux-fur trimmings and biker shorts, wraparound all-black sunglasses, knee-pads in case actual biking was taking place post-show, but what really stood out was the subtle skin-coloured body tape that was placed around the model’s face, covering her hair and jaw lines.
The tape was used throughout the collection, mostly on faces but also seen on their arms. This created an almost inhumane effect, as if what we were looking at were not humans but imitations of humans. This wasn’t the only facial deforming liberty Lundvald Nielsen took, as he also sprinkled in some mouthguards on some looks, including an American-football inspired one with over-the-top shoulders, and black nose strips as well. The tape and the mouthguard combined together resulted in a pretty freaky look, with the physical change being so subtle yet so radical.
Just as faces were deformed, so were the bodies of the models with clothing that dictated their postures. Tees were lifted and placed over the head while durags were given elongated straps for the models to slung themselves on.
Elsewhere we saw a leather sleeveless hooded onesie with its front zipped open, a nice surprise in the bunch was the all pink look (even P.L.N loves Barbie) that featured washed jeans that fell to the floor, and an experimental mesh jersey top that used caps for its shoulders.
The show ended somewhat traditionally with a bridal look accompanied by the sounds of a cover of Hopelessly Devoted To You. We saw “somewhat” because the outfit consisted of a tube dress with a short, geometric train, white taped-up wedge boots, a jacket thrown over the model’s head to act like a vail and, of course, a white mouthguard.
We’re not sure which planet P.L.N.’s humanoid creatures are living on but one thing’s for sure, we’re getting a fast-track ticket there ASAP.
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