There’s not many things more comforting than a fuzzy jumper – especially if it’s mohair. But whilst it’s normally reserved for the winter months, maybe imagined to be worn sitting by a fire in a countryside pub, the convergence of independent movements in fashion have ensured that at the intersection lies a mohair revolution – no matter the temperature.
What are these intersecting independent movements, I hear you ask? Well, firstly, The Rise of The ‘Cozy Boy’. In what some believe to be an opposing reaction to the outdoorsy aesthetic, which has seen activewear brands such as Arc’teryx take over the streetwear scene, there has been a shift into an entirely more comforting way of dressing in recent months. Think the dominance of oversized puffer jackets pioneered by designers such as Dingyun Zhang – or the dizzying ascension of Essentials tracksuits that flooded our feeds in lockdowns 1-3. The Cozy Boy is as prevalent as the Gorpcore Bro – both of which formed from opposing reactions to the pandemic.
Secondly, we’ve got the ongoing knitwear revolution to thank for the mohair revival. With creatives taking to their knitting needles as a lockdown pass-time leading to a fully-fledged crochet trend taking hold last summer, knitwear has been steadily reclaiming its rightful crown in fashion. No longer looked to as a subsection, designers such as Raf Simons and Rick Owens have always championed the technique, constructing (and deconstructing) knits on the catwalk and beyond, and a new legion of emerging knitwear designers and brands (such as Loupy Studio) are rapidly gaining popularity in the fashion space.
Notably though, mohair stands out for its unique, fuzzy feel and look – which brings us onto movement number three – texture. From touchable, 3D textured abstract waves on shirts, to the dominance of materials like velvet, heat-sensitive knits and smooth satin in all areas of fashion, textured pieces are fast becoming the trend to watch this summer – so it’s no surprise that mohair has made the cut. Instantly recognisable for its fuzzy nature, high quality and all-round cosiness, mohair has risen the ranks to become one of the most sought after materials in the streetwear spheres.
Dating all the way back to the time that biblical stories were written, mohair is traditionally derived from Angora goats. Fast forward to today though, and the material has become a go-to for fashion conscious consumers wanting to elevate their fit with a piece in the signature textured fabric. Recently, we’ve seen Louis Vuitton release a series of monogrammed mohair cardigans in contrasting neon and darker iterations, following on from brands such as ERL, Acne Studios, Aime Leon Dore and Supreme to name just a few.
However, one brand known for their mohair is Marni – whose mohair jumpers were hard to escape last season. Seen on celebrities such as A$AP Nast as well as the Cozy Boys of London, New York and other major cities, Marni’s mohair has become something of a brand staple, with drops regularly selling out and pieces becoming highly sought after.
Designers such as Freya McKee are also pushing the mohair cart. Originally gaining prominence for her asymmetric knit tops, she has recently been releasing mohair tops and sweaters, as well as a line of mohair pieces for Marc Jacobs’ it-brand offshoot Heaven. With the rise of the Cozy Boy, and fashion’s soft spot for texture and knits, it seems that the fuzzy fabric is here to stay, regardless of the weather.