The menswear you missed from Pitti Immagine Uomo 105

The menswear you missed from Pitti Immagine Uomo 105

by Robyn Pullen
3 min

Whilst Men’s Fashion Week might be kicking off today in Milan, our eyes are still on Florence where Pitti Immagine Uomo 105 just wrapped. For those who don’t know, Pitti Uomo (or “Pitti Men” in English) is one of the world’s most prestigious and important platforms for men’s clothing and accessories.

Hosted twice a year in Florence at the Fortezza de Basso, the event offers a stage to the world’s most talked about menswear brands and designers. Since 1972, editors, buyers, publicists, and celebrities have flocked to Florence to witness arguably one of the most important events in menswear fashion and design. Here’s what you missed from Pitti Immagine Uomo 105.

Luca Magliano played on our “Nostalghia”

On January 10, Luca Magliano put on a show titled “Nostalghia”, for his appearance as Guest Designer at a Pitti Uomo. Featuring layered cardigans over bulky tartan shirts, baggy knitwear and tailoring, and plastic shopping bags clutched in models’ hands, the collection was a rough, mismatched and kind of chaotic play on the fact that Magliano doesn’t do conventional. His designs, as always, stepped outside the norm of design and aesthetics, pulling on a sense of nostalgia through their imprecise oversizing reminiscent of the vintage gems and hand-me-downs beloved in our childhoods. 

Achilles Ion Gabriel debuted in dark-western style

Achilles Ion Gabriel debuted his first runway collection on January 11, a gender-neutral ode to dark-western (the new term I just coined to describe his blending of grunge and cow print with effortless ease). Developing his expertise in iconic shoe design, the thing he’s primarily become known for, into a full collection of looks worthy of a country and western film. From cow hide trousers paired with matching gloves to striped blue shirts tucked into wide-split skirts, the collection was a blend of classic styles turned on their heads.

Steven Stokey-Daley broke the gender-norms of upper class Britain 

And finally, Steven Stokey-Daley, of his eponymous brand S.S. Daley, was another Guest Designer at Pitti Uomo, putting on a collection that transformed the classic sensibility of the British Upper Class into a “Queer fashion fantasy”. Having grown up in Liverpool, Daley pulled on his British heritage for a show that blended the aesthetics of eccentricity and wealth with an indifference to gender norms, a trademark of his style. White collared jackets reminiscent of the traditional British school uniform are layered over paper-boy trousers, whilst draped knit capes decorated with quintessentially British designs drag at models’ feet.

Featured image via: @magliano.insta

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