Following a surprise midnight announcement only a day before, your favourite designer’s favourite designer, Martine Rose, returned to the Fashion Week schedule, exchanging her native London for Paris. The intimate show felt more like a party than the usual highbrow antics that can sometimes come with showing in the French capital, thanks to a quick changing compilation of feel-good classics soundtracking the collection.
As the show began, the room was filled with Shalamar’s “Night To Remember,” a surefire way to get showgoers’ spirits high. As the first look graced the catwalk, an oversized tailored jacket, worn with a white shirt, bolo tie and black tapered pants, was enveloped with a long-length iridescent puffer jacket with a duffle bag carried under its wearer’s arm. Not only did the look fill the room up, but perfectly reflected the Martine Rose manifesto, where the beauty of the everyday is paired with elevated detail-focused design.
This wasn’t just any catwalk. Models strutted their stuff multiple times, marching up and down the runway, much to the appeal of the excitable crowd, who whooped and cheered below. Brown layered ponchos were next to dance down the runway, paired with orange velvet trousers and pink stilettos, a slowly more energising colour combination brimming with the energy of the dance floor.
Next up, the same asymmetric mash-up was seen on a plaid shirt, where the play with pattern felt like a visual representation of one too many drinks, where patterns and proportions mould and merge into one. The look was finished with straight-fitting indigo denim and brown leather slip-ons.
A billowing, layered grey top was paired with camouflage cargo pants and black pointed stilettos, held together with a silver emblazoned belt. The look epitomises the subcultural underpinnings of the Martine Rose brand, drawing on the influences of a youth spent raving. The addition of a more refined leather shoe ensured a rounded combination as ready for dinner as sweaty nights on the dance floor. Ripstop camo jackets were layered underneath heavyweight top coats in proceeding looks, again aligning with the London label’s contemporary approach to menswear.
Later trippy tailoring entered into Rose’s intoxicating presentation, seen in warped blue zebra print, wobbled with movement. Models then walked down the runway in pairs, demonstrating a hearty outerwear offering of leather and brown overcoats with floor-filling padded shoulders. Rose finished with a cropped cream suit, with a shirt again accented with a western tie, and angular, pointed boots.
For Fall/Winter 2024, Martine Rose put the fun back in fashion, in its on-brand schedule-shy style, throwing a pal-filled party that was the hottest motive in town. Well done, Martine!
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