London-based label Feng Chen Wang unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection this morning as the snow thawed on the streets of Paris. As show guests took their seats on Rue de Rivoli, the crisp Parisian air was filled with the subtle, energising monotony of electronic music, which could be heard throughout the venue.
Ahead of the presentation, Feng Chen Wang revealed a series of portraits shot around the French capital where talent could be pictured holding a teacup, setting the tone for a collection inspired by crockery.
Straight out of the block, we saw structured leather jackets, which cropped below the waist worn with a shirt and tie, black jeans and square-toed lace-up shoes. Models wore glasses below their noses, nodding to the scholarly style of schoolteachers, or eccentric East London mums, aided by the inclusion of asymmetrical feathered earrings, which dangled from its wearer’s ears. Later looks saw relaxed, tea-coloured cardigans finished in oversized proportions paired with leather trousers, a visual tension mirroring the course nature of dried tea before it is mixed with water.
Later, the contemporary take on smart casual dress was furthered as models donned leather ties, with light blue shirts and leather trousers. While feeling like a beautifully balanced blend of the “now,” it also spoke to Feng Chen Wang’s abilities as a designer, a graduate of the Royal College Art who is able to weave subtle subversions into classic menswear looks.
This playful blending of formal and casual dress was extended into looks which paired denim corset-style cumberbands over the top of tailored top coats. Not only was this a re-writing of dress codes, but also felt inherently linked to the Feng Chen Wang brand, which incorporates customisation into its product offering, previously seen in its collaboration with Nike.
Later, we saw tailored suits worn with silver ties and classic square-toed lace-up shoes. This was followed by dual-colour construction double-breasted jackets again held together with a cumberband.
The subtle reworking of tradition crossed over into womenswear looks, seen in a leather jacket and skirt combination, which was finished with a tapered waist, reinterpreting classic pieces with a contemporary edge. Rugged workwear style hooded jackets were worn with long length skirts, where silver zip detailing offered contrast, shimmering in the lights.
The ceramics which inspired the collection were extended into dramatic make-up looks, where models had their faces painted with a ceramic style layer. This was later reflected in teapot-shaped bags, which were carried loosely by the side of models.
The brand’s FW24 collection saw the return of its sought-after Converse collaboration, which was first revealed atop a solid rubberised outer shoe, elevating the streamlined sneaker’s enlarged proportions and channelling a futuristic edge to the menswear looks unfolding before us.
For Fall/Winter 2024, Feng Chen Wang blended tradition with tastemaking design, drawing inspiration from shared moments of joy and translating them into a solid ready-to-wear offering.
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