All the best bits you might have missed from London Fashion Week FW24

All the best bits you might have missed from London Fashion Week FW24

by Ollie Cox
5 min

London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 wrapped up yesterday, and it was a belter. There were standout shows from big hitters like Burberry, runway returns from Eastwood Danso, and a stellar sophomore collection from Aaron Esh. On top of that, there was an off-schedule surprise from Jawara Alleyne and a fab Frolov showcase. Keep reading to see all of the best bits you might have missed. 

Jawara Alleyne took us to church 
Jawara Alleyne ©

On the last day of London Fashion Week, Jawara Alleyne invited us to shelter from the storm. The story of the collection starts with a hurricane, reflective of the Autumn storm season in the Cayman Islands, a place the London-based designer called home following a move from Jamaica. Titled “Eye of the Storm,” the it balanced a Fall/Winter versatility with a lightness and Caribbean point of view. The show’s location was rooted in the refuge Alleyne found in a church during a deadly category 5 hurricane which hit the Cayman Islands in 2004, destroying his family home. The tragic events meant that he had to seek refuge in the church, seeking solace with fellow survivors.

Models slowly stalked through the space, pausing to pose on pues to the front. Tops mirrored shawls cocooning models’ torsos. Later looks saw models wear wellies, and waterproof clogs, injecting a wet weather utilitarianism to the display. 

Di Petsa delved into heartbreak 

Di Petsa explored what it means to fall in and out of love for Fall/Winter 2024, as well as how to reflect that love onto yourself for FW24. This season, we saw the designer double down on her Greek Orthodox upbringing in looks that went heavy on the headdresses in varying shades of white. It was sensual, chic, sexy and felt like a real coming together of everything Di Petsa does well. 

Eastwood Danso returned to the runway

Could Eastwood Danso be the best show soundtrack of London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024? It’s up there. Showgoers were serenaded with the serene sounds of Wish Love FM, which filled the room with a genre-jumping blend of feel-good bangers ahead of the show. Returning to the runway after a four-year hiatus, we saw a merging of streetwear with tailored men’s and womenswear pieces, and flashes of colour arrived in figure-hugging women’s dresses and graphic prints on the front of hoodies, with textured mesh hoods and colour-soaked appliques. Other highlights included water-stained brown bombers, which were worn with exaggerated trapper-style hats, and crossbody bags arrived in a lively yellow hue. 

Momonary brought maps to life

Momonary made its runway debut with 3M this season, drawing inspiration from cartography and the spirit of adventure. For this mega map-meets-runway display, we saw strong and gentle co-exist with strong and durable. This combination was seen across looks that went heavy on coats etched with map-like drawings and textured dresses, which elevated the imperfect beauty of the earth onto the runway, where 3M’s technical innovations collided with Momonary founders Zeng Yue and Fu Fanding’s creative visions. 

Paolo Carzana climbed mountains

Titled, “Melanchronic Mountain,” Paolo Carzana’s collection centred on the idea of maintaining positivity in difficult times. Models assumed almost supernatural identities as clothing reflected the natural landscape, where mud-like shades met with flowers, interacting seamlessly across sheer ruffled garments. Earth-toned greens and woodland camo featured in loose-fitting looks. Lighter shades of brown grounded the collection with the fertility of nature, where ruched detailing brought a couture-like elegance to the occasion.

Simone Rocha put Crocs on the Catwalk 

Simone Rocha’s Fall/Winter 2024 show saw the London-based designer continue her delicate approach to femininity, where sheer fabrics were accented with jewellery-like detailing. Solid colours were used for structured shirting and softened with mesh corsets, and tailored jackets were cut short and finished with silver detailing to the chest. The usual ethereal elegance was complimented by a collaboration with Crocs, which saw four key silhouettes, including the heeled Clog, Crush boot and Stomp Clog, and the Classic Lined Clog, given a pearl embellishment makeover. 

Frolov looked to ‘90s freedom 

Frolov’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection looked to the femininity, sexuality and freedom of expression in the late ‘90s and early ‘00s. There was some large and in-charge Tony Montana-approved leopard print, seen across dresses and coats, sexy sheer dresses, and deep red leather looks, which served as a visual representation of brand founder Ivan Frolov’s memories of Crimeans discotheques, where chic and eclectic designs came together. 

Cover Image: @Frolov

More on Culted 

See: SUSAN FANG dipped a toe into the idea of ‘home’ for FW24

See: Burberry Winter 2024: celebrating the great British outdoors & Amy Winehouse

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