It’s no secret that London-based designer Kiko Kostadinov has been on a Japan kick in the past few years. He’s been spending a lot of time in Tokyo for his ongoing partnership with Asics (his Kiko Kostadinov Studio line with the Japanese sports brand has a huge cult following), he’s partnered with Japanese label Hysteric Glamour, he’s opened a flagship store just off Harajuku’s Cat Street, and he most recently dipped his toes into Japanese denim. It’s only natural that his SS26 collection was full of Japanese references.
Socks with flip flops, new Tabi Asics, jackets with Haori-inspired fastenings, and a nonchalant Harajuku aura of mishmashed prints and offbeat colours saturated the runway. The collection also featured Kiko’s new Japanese Konkord Denim ventures – he’s linked up with an artisan in Hiroshima, a hub for expert denim manufacturers that still use traditional crafting techniques. The designer also referenced his homeland (Bulgaria) with trousers inspired by Bulgarian military striped pyjamas.
Kiko’s utilitywear took a more whimsical turn, taking a page from his womenswear designer-duo Laura and Deanna Fanning, who love to experiment with prints, shapes and textures. Nylon workwear pants had ruffle hems, his tailoring featured polka dots and checks, he played with his button placements on suiting, and he tucked trousers into socks or added a cuff on the hem for rolling up. His leathers were a standout: a buttery black boxy collared jacket and an oversized black tote.
The designer’s been having more fun, especially with his styling, keeping it interesting and different, adhering not to the consumer but to what he wants to create.
Featured images via Getty Images©
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