Kiko Kostadinov’s off-kilter designs often look like something from another universe, but its latest Laura and Deanna Fanning-led link-up with ECCO.Kollektive is a stylish sci-fi banger. The second capsule is Designed by the label’s womenswear designers Laura and Deanna Fanning, the Melbourne-born design duo capable of turning everything from accessories – like the super popular trivia bag or sell-out sneakers with ASICS – into cool-girl catnip.
Laura and Deanna Fanning were granted access to Ecco’s leather manufacturers, tanneries and materials as part of the ECCO.Kollektive program, resulting in even more otherworldly, wearable goodness. Titled “Hypatia,” the collection plays on the idea of technology as fantasy, but in a cool, nostalgic way, rather than a “these robots will take my job” way. Informed by retrofuturism and the outfits worn in the early days of air travel, sleek, streamlined sneakers and boots feature textured sphere-like detailing, subtly subverting the silhouette with Kiko Kostadinov’s trademark utilitarianism. Imagine astro turfs you can wear in space, and you’re on the right track.
Low-cut Mary Janes complete the footwear offering, building on ECCO’s extensive archive and updating the classic footwear style with Laura and Deanna Fanning’s blend of old and new. Nostalgic nods to aviation’s early uniforms are continued into supple leather jackets, which again feature colourful piping, as biker silhouettes merge with a softer air-travel-inspired design.
When it comes to accessories, vintage flight uniforms and handbags are recreated in glossy leather bags where curved piping and mechanical mould handles serve up a Star Trek meets Shacklewell Lane uniform.
In a campaign shot by Carlijn Jacobs and styled by Imruh Asha models in brightly coloured tights are pictured contorting their bodies into metallic structures. In the snaps, bold storytelling and product-focused shots intersect with Jacobs’ intuitive approach to image-making, seen as models peek around the corner donning the collection’s collaborative footwear, true to Jacobs’ playful style.
The collaboration launched in the UK at London’s LN-CC, with the legendary London store’s L8TE space transformed into a Kiko Kostadinov x ECCO.Kollektive gallery. As always, Kiko Kostadinov’s loyal army of followers turned up to Dalston’s den of designer goodness to show their support. See what Laura and Deanna had to say about the collection below.
How have you worked your ECCO.Kollektive collection into the installation at LN-CC?
The collection works very naturally in the space. The spherical tooling of the shoes and the mouldings on the bags sit atop of spherical plinths. The characters in Carlijn’s photos are wearing the collection, too.
What has been a highlight of working with ECCO.Kollektive?
Working with a leather specialist (Ecco Leather) was a first and very insightful for us. We are so excited to be able to work with Ecco’s innovative techniques and processes. Visiting their archive in Tønder and their atelier and tannery in Dongen was a real highlight of our collaboration with ECCO.Kollekive.
The campaign is shot by Carlijn Jacobs and styled by Imruh Asha. How was it working collaboratively with these guys on the project?
It was inspiring to work with them both. The location was spectacular, and it was interesting to see them move around the multi-level space constantly, creating new ways to see the pieces.
What is your favourite piece from the collection?
Deanna: The Eero jacket in Burgundy.
Laura: The Artemis Mary Jane in opaline green.
Can you talk me through the story of your collection in your own words?
We thought about a traveller. For us we interpreted this as travelling through time. We initially started with the shoes and based the remainder of the collection [around] these ideas.
The slim tooling and minimal style of the upper led to a spacey feeling. We thought about the looks as uniforms to create this character. The leathers used on the ready-to-wear are super soft and draped. We could create double-faced collars with metallic contrast and draped knees on the trousers. The bags utilise the rubber mouldings on their base and on the handles. They have a retro airline feel.
The collection feels spacey and futuristic but has a utilitarian wearability at its core. What was on the mood board for this ECCO.Kollektive collection?
We started with a mood board for colour palettes that included retro kitchen objects and 60s sci-fi furniture. By the end of the process, most of the bright colour was edited out but the feeling these objects gave is still present in the collection. We also looked at ‘80s leather flight jackets.
You’ve previously presented your work with ECCO.Kollektive in Paris. How does it feel to showcase it in London at LN-CC?
The context is very different. It’s good to see the pieces given their own space. We felt like the exhibition really translated the world and thought process behind the work.
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