Under the direction of enigmatic KidSuper founder and designer, Colm Dillane, Louis Vuitton delivered a fresh brand ethos for its FW23 Menswear collection. Post-Virgil, a new tradition has been born, with the creative reins handed over to a guest designer. Though the majority of the designs were created in-house by the Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme team, the orchestration had KidSuper’s distinguishably playful style written all over it. As a new horizon beckoned for Louis Vuitton, Colm Dillane guided the ship with ease.
A NEW ERA DAWNS FOR LV
Whilst it seemed inevitable that the next designer at the helm would be compared to the late Abloh, KidSuper’s vision this season was an unexpected but exciting usher into a new era for the French house. Renowned for his extensive colour exploration and bold design choices, Dillane successfully manipulates intriguing visages and draws on heavy inspiration from oil paintings in his designs.
In true KidSuper style, Dillane’s penchant for adventurous silhouettes and experimentation with difficult materials was clear throughout the collection. His appointment arguable only goes to prove how open Louis Vuitton is to future technological innovation within their designs.
Colm understood the assignment this season. Seamlessly blending his own distinct evocative aesthetic with LV’s iconic elements, this KidSuper directed collection merged heritage and contemporary visions as one.
A desert-camo trench jacket in classic house style flowed down into monochromatic, muted sneakers and vivid, electric graphics rolled out alongside scores of iconic monogram-patterned pieces – a playful combination of classic Louis Vuitton details and Dillane’s streetwear touch.
Taking influence from the artisanal, thin-line drawings that we often see within his main line, Dillane stitched and sewed various silhouettes with his signature raw techniques, rendering similarities to treasured vintage store finds. His use of patches and core primary colours are unique to KidSuper’s vision and in conjunction with classic Louis Vuitton designs, gave the collection an attainably personal feel.
ROSALÍA ADDED CHAOS TO THE MIX
In rare form, the event’s starring performer was not only accredited with providing the show’s soundtrack, but was a part of the show itself. Rosalía, the TikTok beloved Spanish artist, danced, sung and exuded generally chaotic energy atop the same gargantuan toy car that was initially featured in the opening video.
Throughout the show, Rosalía dominated the the set (notably laid out like a childhood bedroom) with confidence and classic LV poise. Winding up in the backseat of the car, she posed for the camera and flexed her distended puffer coat, eventually finding herself interacting with the models throwing plush animals out of the trunk whilst they branded the walls with markers.
At one point, the show even came to an abrupt halt as Rosalía and a model circled around the main portion of the stage, parading to the echoing beat of the show soundtrack.
SLOGANS ACROSS THE BOARD
Slogans played a major role in this collection, serving as a way for Dillane to fuse his nostalgic imagination with Louis Vuitton’s historic spirit, including one piece with “Fantastic imagination” emblazoned across the front. For Dillane, a youth-like vision was the driving force within the show.
Further along we saw a plaid creation with a graphic placed across the model’s midsection, running onto the sleeves. Emblazoned with “Blurry vision of a bright future,” the motif featured on illustrative printed pieces and was spotted once more splashed across an 80s-themed, black-and-white suit in a burnt orange hue.
OUTERWEAR GOT A PLAYFUL UPDATE
For FW23, LV’s choices of outerwear were not only vast – but immensely unique. Tailored, monochromatic looks featured alongside a variety of checked coats, whilst a heritage-meets-playful spotted trench upped the ante.
The outerwear offerings progressed into some more archive-inspired looks – including a bomber jacket with provocatively placed pockets – and a full-bodied leather jacket. Meanwhile, a vast shearling coat stole the show with the addition of a matching mini Speedy bag.
The question now looms – will Dillane stay for the long haul at LV following the collection’s success? We’ll soon find out if the industry rumours ring true.
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