Nosy neighbours called: they want JW Anderson’s FW24 collection back

Nosy neighbours called: they want JW Anderson’s FW24 collection back

by Robyn Pullen
4 min

Jonathan Anderson invited us to the Seymour Leisure Centre in London this morning, not for a workout, but to show his Fall/Winter 2024 Womenswear collection for his eponymous label, JW Anderson. Hosted in what’s usually a sports hall, the show welcomed guests to the echoing sounds of sneakers squeaking and a buzzing anticipation which murmured through the space.

Speaking with Jonathan Anderson himself after the show, he attributed an unusual muse for his FW24 collection, explaining that he was inspired by the oddities of vintage Britain. Instead of the glamorous muse we tend to expect, Anderson described his muse as, “slightly twisted in terms of a ‘woman next-door.’ The nosy neighbour.” 

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The entire collection was based on this concept of glorified nostalgia; the idea that Britain has completely changed, and the nosy neighbour no longer has a place in modern society. Anderson took the most iconic motifs from British cultural norms that we’ve long moved away from (referencing shows like Last of the Summer Wine as inspiration), and put them under a spotlight. Whether they came off appearing glamorous or grotesque, he apparently didn’t mind. 

This element of the “grotesque” was reflected in the silhouettes of his collection, which Anderson described as intentionally designed to seem badly constructed. He explained that much of the outerwear within JW Anderson’s FW24 collection were supposed to look “as if all their lining had been ripped out … so that the shoulder had bad construction.” 

The idea of bad construction is seen in the hugely oversized, collared coats which evidently did appear to have had their linings removed. Shoulders which you’d assume were meant to have been padded, sloped downwards instead. And although this concept of shoddy construction wasn’t evident in every look, with some garments featuring rigid cinching at the waist, on the dramatically oversized coats it was extremely effective. 

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Jonathan Anderson also referenced the garland as an icon that inspired a lot of the collection, and this was evident through plenty of looks, particularly those with vibrant coloured garlands attached to the waist. Belts made up of beds of faux flowers in red, green, and yellow were adorned with garland-style skirts which swung in ribbons around the models’ legs. 

Describing the garland’s impact on his FW24 collection, Anderson said that he liked “this idea of celebrations within the country; horse riding, things where you win trophies. I wanted something that was a bit off-kilter.” Another aspect of the show that was off-kilter were the hats designed to look like wigs. Curled, grey wigs sat atop many of the models’ heads, adding to this caricature of the “nosey neighbour”.

As Anderson explained, he wanted the collection to both glorify and glamorise age, juxtaposing it with the grotesqueness of the twisted muse he was representing. He referenced the idea of “the person washing their laundry in the garden.” The JW Anderson FW24 woman puts curlers in her hair to people-watch from her kitchen window. 

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Another motif that dominated JW Anderson’s FW24 collection was the knot. Many looks utilised long, loose fabrics, seen on skirts, dresses, and sweaters, which were knotted and weaved to alter the silhouette of the garments. Loose cotton slips featured plaited details which caused the waist to cinch, transforming their silhouettes, whilst thicker, woollen jumpers with extra swaths of fabric at waist saw these tucked and twisted into belt-like knots. 

Similar style knots appeared on chain-embellished, slouchy leather bags, with wrapped coloured rope detailing their handles. But the knot detailing was also taken to another level, as seen in the form of dresses created completely out of knotted, twisted bulks of fabric, and bags using the same technique. 

As Jonathan Anderson said of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, “This is sort of the end of this year for me, because it starts after these shows, at the beginning of the next season, and it’s sort of like a roundoff of last year,” so, who knows what next season will look like. Until then, you can find us peering between our curtains in a full JW Anderson FW24 fit.

Featured image via CULTED©

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