We weren’t sure on what to expect from the new Tom Ford creative director. Haider Ackermann took over in September, after previous CD Peter Hawking’s firing (he worked under Tom since forever and didn’t last a year on the CD chair). “I hope I seduced you all,” said Haider backstage, and he did. Even Tom himself approved with a huge congratulatory hug as Haider walked out.
Hot, buttery leathers in biker jackets and pants, luxe suiting and silks – Haider brought an overall sensual, classic glamour that’s been low-key missing from this season. The eveningwear was exceptional: A-listers will be thirsting over this collection for the red carpet, for sure.
The leathers were well-done, the tailoring was clean, and we really vibed with the fish-scaled textures on the final looks. Haider was also the only designer that didn’t do fur for FW25, and we respect that. He really hit the mark with embedding his own aesthetic in the Tom Ford world, staying true to his own and avoiding overdone Tom Ford archive references.
One thing to note though, the lineup of models was not diverse at all. The casting was very white-heavy (41 out of the 56 models were white, only eight were black), and there was no body inclusivity whatsoever. It’s Tom Ford, white and skinny has always been the vibe, but times have changed. Come on now. Love to see older models though.
Featured images Tom Ford©
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