Following his debut Spring/Summer 2024 collection last season, Gucci Creative Director Sabato De Sarno unveiled his first menswear collection for the House for Fall/Winter 2024. The latest offering followed the release of Gucci’s Ancora campaign earlier this week, which nodded to the ‘90s heyday of the label, unveiling a fresh faces to reflect his shift in vision.
Ahead of the event, a new art installation was unveiled on the Gucci Art Wall in Milan with works by Valerio Eliogabalo Torris, similarly to what De Sarno did for his debut SS24 show last women’s season. The white wall houses the phrase “Ogni tanto, lo so, sogni anche tu, e sogni di noi” (translating to “Every now and then, I know, you dream too, and you dream of us”) in Ancora red, furthering De Sarno’s fusion of art and fashion that we have come to expect.
Sabato De Sarno continued to move the brand away from the maximalist silhouettes associated with the House’s previous spectacles, opting to further the youthful sentiment sewn into his SS24 women’s collection. Reminiscent of Tom Ford’s Gucci, a period characterised by its timeless merging of sexy and chic, De Sarno’s storied design legacy was laid bare.
Tailoring was boxy and cut loose in the similar muted shades seen in his debut. Jackets enveloped bare chests and were accessorised with chunky statement jewellery, first seen in a David Sims-shot Gucci Jewellery campaign. Subtle white piping accented the collar of lapels to add further pops of colour. Standout pieces included snakeskin-leather coats
Spacious leather shoulder bags matched vibrant gloves in both the House’s signature Ancora red and a more muted lime green. This injection of colour, which later went on to include green and blue, reflected “a flash of spontaneity, of light, of a party at the first light of day.” This exploration came in the form of leather lead-like ties, which were finished with collar-like fastening, nodding to the themes of lust and desire that informed the collection. These standout accessories are rooted in sensual escape, paired with leather gloves, and worn shirtless.
These accessories nodded to both De Sarno’s understanding of the House and reflected a subtle subversion of menswear codes, where a formal garment such as the tie can become a reflection of lust and sexuality. This was continued into looks which paired black utilitarian bomber jackets with sparkling vests and matching bags. The pairing of a structured bomber with a loose-fitting vest not only injected a club-ready sensibility into the collection but created a tension reflective of De Sarno’s exploration of passion, humanity and lust.
When he took the helm at Gucci, De Sarno made his vision clear: “To make people fall in love with Gucci again,” and today he did exactly that, continuing to leave his mark on the house by designing in a way that feels both familiar and experimental and looking to the past to inform the present.
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