There’s nothing more magical than big-budget fashion shows – especially if the brand in question happens to be one of the classic Italian luxury houses. Taking to a remote 13th century castle in South East Italy, Gucci just put on a show that centred on heritage, astrology and opulence – all whilst giving Volturi couture.
Resort shows are often overlooked in the fashion schedule, perhaps due to their far-flung locations and collections which are most often reserved for wealthy buyers, or seldom make their way into the brand’s usual design rotation. However, in these quirks is also the opportunity for fashion houses to showcase their design capabilities without consideration for commerciality or budget: often leading to wildly opulent displays of the top financial tiers of fashion at large – and Gucci delivered on this pact.
Entitled Gucci Cosmogonie, derived from mythology which explains the formation of the world, the show was a tribute to astrology, culture and history. Allusions to the classical, royal and religious were made clear in the materials and accessories: velvet gowns were topped with ruffs, and layered pearls draped over jewel-embroidered pieces. One look was remnant of a nun, if nuns wore Gucci – featuring an all-black, high-necked dress. Elsewhere, Michele crafted a Gucci-fied knight, in keeping with the show’s castle setting, who’s chainmail reflected the strobe lights that surrounded the castle like an illuminated moat.
However, whilst the classical and historical references were definitely there, maybe more interesting was the fact that they were off-set by a harsher aesthetic. Studded belts and gladiator sandals recontextualised textured tulle gowns, and Gucci monogram buzzcuts added an edge to the traditionally ‘pretty’ prints.
One such subversion saw gloves cut almost in half, creating a crescent silhouette which cut across the hand and disrupted traditional perceptions of gloves as finery. Contrastingly, latex opera gloves reigned supreme in the collection too, coming in iterations of pink, blue, black and red to name a few. A standout look saw pale blue latex gloves paired with a sheer lime dress, which combined with the Italian wind, set both the garment and expectations in motion.
Another highlight came in the form of a diamond-encrusted suit, paired with a blue shirt, or the closing look which saw a deep blue velvet gown adorned with each star sign’s constellation. Mirrored and projected on the castle itself for the finale sequence, the whole affair was Gucci but high-glamour, high-proportion and high-drama – but it will remain to be seen as to whether the show sticks.
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