Silvia Venturini returned to Milan Fashion Week for FENDI Menswear, presenting its Fall/Winter 2024 collection which, by the looks of it, makes us want to leave the city of Milano and head straight for the Dolomites.
With rubber welly boots and and collard overcoats stepping out before our eyes within the first ten looks, the Italian House had set its theme for its FW24 collection: escapism through an old money countryside excursion. And Venturini isn’t afraid to get hands-on and dirty, as a model stepped out wearing farmer-like brown gloves and carrying a pillow padded khaki bag, reminiscent of a 20kg bag of mixed corn for poultry.
Tartan and checks, corduroy stripes, and the double “F” Fendi monogram, appeared in a certain richness of motifs, an array of visual particularities that hints at a wardrobe of infinite possibilities. The materials used throughout also added a textural layer through accessories and coats alike to sheepskin, wool scarves, and faux-fur jackets. The result came in as a heavy and full look, but not in the sense that too much is going on, but rather, that its wearer must be perfectly warm while outback, cutting up wood for the lodge’s Victorian fireplace.
What the concrete room lacked in pastoral portrayal was made up for in the collection’s colours of choice; earthy tones varying from dark wood brown to moss green, with the occasional pop of colour to remind you of a blue tit flying into your grand garden, even on a cold winter’s day. It was as if Venturini took a page out of Tess of the D’Urbervilles and turned it into a menswear fashion show.
Midway through the show, we saw the runway introduction to bucket hats, a spheric speaker-bag, and generally more laid back garments, which revealed a power struggle between the urban and the country life. In an all-grey look, a model can be seen wearing sneaker-style shoes, some co-ord tracksuit but make them luxury, and some modernised hand accessories, giving the city boys a run for their money. Although, this look is finished off with a hybrid of a beret, trapper and snapback-style hat, tying the whole look back into the pastoral ideal Venturini has been projecting all collection long.
The show ended with evening wear, because even countryside residents have a party to attend. For the younger cousins who want to separate themselves from their older family after the big roast, FENDI offers mesh tops and sparkling tanks, highlighting the hedonism that comes with old money.
FENDI’s Fall/Winter 2024 show sits right on the fringes of a new cultural movement, one that embraces the old money aesthetics of Saltburn and listens to Pinterest’s prediction for grandpa chic to make a return this year; a movement we’ll be seeing more of in the near future, with this show as one of its referencing points.
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