From rags to riches at Dsquared2 FW24

From rags to riches at Dsquared2 FW24

by Juliette Eleuterio
3 min

Dsquared2 gave us a rags to riches story for its Fall/Winter 2024 show, except the rags are still going to cost in the thousands of bucks.

Closing off day one of Men’s Milan Fashion Week, the Dean and Dan Caten-led brand, which always shows co-ed, departed from its usual sex-on-legs approach to design – though sexy was still part of the offering this season – and found its new footing in the concept of renewal. Dsquared2 teased its show on its Instagram hours prior, unveiling its three pillars: renewal, rebeautify, rebuild. And no, this wasn’t a rebranding strategy, but rather a creative tease of what was to come.

While Dsquared2’s FW24 show started off as a regular show, it sure didn’t stay that way long. A first roster of models came out, looking rugged and with mud-like stains all over their bodies. As Pinterested predicted, grandpa chic is in style this season, as overlaid flannels lived under sherpa vests, and a grandpa-style jumper was cut up to make the sleeves of one jacket and the bodice for a womenswear top. 

We saw signature Dsquared2 elements, such as the “Lord” buckles found on the opening look’s beanie, the teeny tiny nipple coverage through gold chain links on a lace and beaded little black dress, reminiscent of the skimpy tops we saw last season, and jeans unbuttoned to reveal yet another pair of jeans, except inside out. Even though this was a colder season, skin was still the hottest accessory. Earthy toned with pops of colours, the first half of Dsquared2’s collection felt like a sexy woodcutter had just entered the room.

This all changed when models entered an electrifying box that changed their whole look into a chic and classy affair, ready to party – as if it wasn’t already. Denim jackets turned into black blazers, mud-stained shorts became sequined-emblazoned straight trousers, and black leather and faux-fur trimmed hooded dresses took centre stage.

What seemed like a magic trick was later revealed as a trick of the eye rather, as pairs of similar-looking models walked down the runway to face each other, revealing the trick was actually performed by using two different people. 

Last season, Dsquared2 put on a full pornographic production with a special guest appearance by Italian adult film star Rocco Siffredi, turning the heat in the room all the way up as if the cost of living crisis didn’t affect its electricity bills. But for this season, Dsquared2 decided to opt for a sci-fi inspired gimmick, while keeping the heat on the clothes showing that both classy and outdoorsy fits can still be drooled over.

Oh and, in case you missed it, Dean and Dan finished off the show with one of the brothers dressed in drag. It’s only day one of Milan Fashion Week and it’s already a highlight.

More on Culted

See: Sexy menswear is back for Gucci Fall/Winter 2024

See: What’s happening at this season’s Milan Fashion Week

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