Today in Paris, the likes of Tyla, Raye, Tems, Hong Joong, and Central Cee pulled up to the former home of architect Auguste Perrerre to climb into tiny old fashion elevators and be carried up to Jacquemus’ FW25 showspace. With a capacity of only forty people, the venue was intimate. We found our seats navigating around household objects like armchairs, side tables, an array of bronze statues, a rustic sink and bath, and, amongst the furniture, iPhones - not discarded by guests, but propped up on stands, ready to shoot every angle of the collection.
That’s because last week, ahead of the show, Jacquemus took to IG to reveal that Simon Porte Jacquemus had signed a deal with Apple and his FW25 show would be shot entirely on iPhone - specifically, the latest iPhone 16 Pro Max. Considering the show didn’t livestream and actually won’t be available to watch online until 7:30pm CET (it showed at 2pm CET so that’s five and a half hours later) we’re not sold on the whole “shot on iPhone” thing, but it’s still cool to know that you can cop a phone with a camera good enough to shoot a show at Paris Fashion Week.
Despite being shot on iPhone, Jacquemus’ FW25 show was a movie. With Christy Turlington, Irina Shayk, Alex Consani, Mona Tougaard, Adriana Lima and more on the runway, the show reunited some of fashion’s biggest runway models, who each took turns dominating the runway (as per). Titled “LA CROISIÈRE,” the collection itself played with the idea of heritage, inventing a history for Jacquemus that it doesn’t really have. Pretending that the brand has existed since the 1950s, Simon Porte Jacquemus revisited imagined codes from the past through the lens of today.
Tracing the imaginary history of Jacquemus back to eras of post-war optimism, Simon Porte Jacquemus took inspiration from the iconic couturiers of the past, with looks and pieces that you could tell referenced the likes of Coco Chanel, Paul Poiret, and Elsa Schiaparelli. Paul Poiret appeared in the form of a fluidly draped scarlet evening dress; Schiaparelli was referenced through cinched waists and avant garde accessories like milk cartons; and we saw Chanel in three-piece suits and refined tailoring.
Despite the collection taking inspo from the works of many famous couturiers, we still saw a mixture of pieces that were familiarly “Jacquemus” on the runway, like polka dotted suits and gowns, zebra print bolero jackets, rectangle-toes shoes, and of course the brand’s iconic bags. If Jacquemus had existed since the ‘50s, we have no doubt he would’ve dressed some icons - Sophia Loren would’ve been all over this collection fs.
Featured image via @handinfire ©
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