To tease this season's Wooyoungmi show, the brand took to Instagram to upload a photo of the 18th-century Hôtel de Maisons' elaborate chandeliers and gold-reliefed walls. The luxe show space was an accurate precursor for what was to come: a sharply-tailored collection of fine craftsmanship soundtracked by a concerto.
The AW25 opening looks consisted of slick double-breasted, Victorian-style frock coats cinched at the waist (calling to mind this LV and Bluemarble's PFW shows), featuring rosette-style flowers secured to sleeves, breast pockets, and right-hand shoulders. Male and female models' faces were contoured as sharply as the suits were tailored, while men's hair was styled in old Hollywood side-parted waves.
As the show went on, the collection's wearability and edge factor increased: formal suits made way for cropped jackets and knit long-johns exposed at the hip boxer style (a womenswear staple in 2024), trousers were casually rolled up at the ankle, and ski-style pants were worn half-open via zips running up the leg.
The show also confirmed that fur is a dominant trend this season, with fur collars in deep turquoise or maroon lining lapels. Aviator jackets, too, continued to make a splash (just as they did at Our Legacy and Brioni) via shearling jackets in blue and brown.
The show's accessories also hit: cozy knit mittens hung from jumpers and jacket sleeves while brimmed fez-style hats were perched atop a smattering of models' heads. Meanwhile, the shoes were unremarkable but classic, with most outfits finished with patent, leather, or suede brogues or ankle boots.
Perhaps the most striking feature of the collection was the Minhwa, the Korean folk art of the Chosun era, which, after being subtly hinted at via the lining of jackets, became a staple of the collection, printed across socks, trousers, and jackets. After all, namesake designer Woo Young Mi was the first female designer in Korea to design men's ready-to-wear, so it tracks that her Paris show would hint at her heritage.
All featured images via Wooyoungmi ©
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