This morning’s Blumarine show was the first under new Creative Director David Koma, who has spent the past fifteen years heading up his namesake label from London. According to a pre-show interview with the designer for Vogue Business, this season was an ode to Italian movie stars. Indeed, the collection was glamorous, but with hints of gothic sensuality: a kind of dark-femme utopia.
Koma put his signature stamp on the brand from the first look: supermodel Irina Shayk opened the show in a cinched-at-the-waist black coat, a nod to the figure-contouring silhouettes the designer is renowned for. The first portion of the collection was black, evolving from Shayk’s winter-ready fit to lace pirate tops, corsets, and a sheer bodysuit emblazoned with a diamonte butterfly at the crotch— a nod to the brand’s iconic Y2K era under then-creative director Nicola Brognano.
Going forward, lace was a key feature of the collection, appearing in transparent, nipple-revealing, lingerie-adjacent lace dresses, off-the-shoulder pirate-style dresses, an intricate structural corset, and a crinoline-style skirt.
The show’s denim once again hinted at its Y2K era: Koma served up denim shirts and jeans adorned with 3D denim flowers, blingy silver belts and studded heeled boots—all likely an offering for the daughter, as Koma has been quoted saying he designs with a mother-daughter duo in mind, enduring the brand has intergenerational appeal.
But the vermillion offerings were the standout feature of Koma’s debut, and the one that most screamed Italian moviestar: ribbed red skirts were trimmed with thick fur and a Westwood-style cinched dress was paired with an oversized fur coat. Meanwhile, red lace billowed behind models as they walked the comparatively minimal runway. Cleverly, almost all the ensembles were fully committed to one colour, giving the red offerings particular power.
Judging by the collection, Koma’s Blumarine will be one to watch. And what’s even better? The brand's prices have recently gone down in an attempt at democratization. If you see us matching with our mums, no you didn’t.
Images via Purple
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