CELINE Homme Winter 2024 wasn’t Hedi Slimane’s first rodeo

CELINE Homme Winter 2024 wasn’t Hedi Slimane’s first rodeo

by Ollie Cox
3 min

CELINE just released its Homme Winter 2024 collection titled “Symphonie Fantastique,” and it was a full-on fashion-meets film blockbuster. The short movie continued the familiar video format that CELINE has used since the COVID-19 pandemic, where Creative Director Hedi Slimane directs and presents collections with an attention to detail, and level of production that would be difficult to achieve using a traditional show format.  

The Maison’s latest presentation kicked things off with a swarm of jet-black “CELINE” branded helicopters as they descended into California’s Mojave desert. Why, you might ask? To drop off CELINE jukeboxes, of course. Then, Slimane’s troop of uber-cool models and muses pulled up to the function in a legion of all-black Cadillacs, a super smart signal of what was in store. 

The collection saw a tailoring-centred return to Slimane’s sartorial tradition, revisiting the “I” line silhouettes that came to define the Anglomania of the ‘60s. This is seen across frock coats, three-button suits, and hand-embroidered waistcoats in quality fabrics like silk, cashmere, and vicuna. CELINE Homme’s Winter 2024 suiting was accessorised with ‘60s campaign-style hats, which shielded its wearer from the desert sun in the most “I’m sick at the guitar” way possible.

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Beyond tailoring, the collection saw a typically Slimane slimmed-down silhouette applied to trousers that gently lapped Western-style boots. Cropped overcoats in silver and gold mirrored the nighttime shimmer of a glitterball, with the effect later applied to tailored jackets. Next, we got a full rockstar leather biker jacket and pants combo, which was worn with slim-frame glasses, with leather overcoats seen shortly afterwards. The night-time-meets-desert narrative continued with fur-like topcoats (CELINE has a no-fur policy), which concealed the tailored-to-perfection clobber underneath. 

The name of the show serves as a reference to French composer Hector Berlioz’ symphony, which soundtracks the show film, and was described by Leonard Bernstein as “the first psychedelic symphony in history.” Given Slimane’s presence in the music scene, exemplified in his Bob Dylan Campaigns, The Strokes performance at its women’s FW23 show, and LCD soundsystem Homme Summer 2024 show soundtrack (there are loads more), it wasn’t surprising to see California’s music legacy explored in the collection.

Interior shots are filmed in the Troubadour Club in LA. It was opened in 1957 and hosted some of the biggest contemporary musicians, including Joni Mitchell, Neil Young, Carole, The Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Guns N Roses, Pearl Jam, The Strokes and more. These rock stars were referred to as the “modern day troubadours” by the club’s owner Doug Weston, comparing the artist to the french musicians of the 11th to 13th centuries. In a reference to Los Angeles’ contemporary cultural contributions, as well as those from centuries ago, Slimane connects the dots between CELINE’s Parisian heritage and California’s position as a bastion of cool.

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The hypnotising effects didn’t stop at the soundtrack either. Throughout the film, colour and black and white shots were juxtaposed with shots of real-life cowboy Brayden Liberio on his horse Frijole, bringing a western-tinged cool to the sartorial suave of Slimane’s desert Anglomania. 

CELINE Homme Winter 2024 was a Cali-coded blend of Hedi Slimane CELINE, where tailoring and music came together. The campaign showed Slimane’s strength in both design and direction, exemplified in his rock and roll rodeo for the Maison. 

See: BFRND is taking Balenciaga Music to another dimension 

See:  A morning stroll to Valentino‘s new Sloane Square boutique

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