Aaron Esh brought it home for Fall/Winter 2024

Aaron Esh brought it home for Fall/Winter 2024

by Ollie Cox
3 min

Aaron Esh exemplifies everything great about the London fashion community, graduating from one of its esteemed colleges and creating with the UK capital in mind. And, for Fall/Winter 2024, he brought things a little closer to home in his native Hackney. 

The show took place in the Sarabande Foundation building (a charity set up by the late Lee Alexander McQueen to support emerging design talent), a short walk from Haggerston station and only a couple of doors down from The Duke of York pub. The designer support scheme has provided residency to the Aaron Esh studio since November 2023. 

The location itself sits at the intersection between De Beauvoir Town and Kingsland Road, where grand Victorian villas are a stone’s throw from fabric shops frequented by thrifty fashion students and hallowed nightlife venues. This location mirrors Esh’s output, where traditional tailoring tropes inform sartorial subversions with the effervescence of a lager top.

As guests arrived in a small downstairs waiting room, they were greeted with a glass of champagne and a cut-glass glass fruit bowl filled with cigarettes: a welcome treat on the third day of London Fashion Week. 

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Building on the success of his SS24 debut, which was presented on the top floor of the Tate Modern in September, and looked to the chaos and control of London, Esh continued to design clothing bursting with a carefree cool. Initial womenswear looks saw sheer mesh used to craft delicate evening dresses which fell below the ankle, accented with a contrasting grey scarf. Slim-fitting shimmering trousers were worn with furry jackets and finished with a white colourway of Esh’s viral Comma Derby.

Dresses were draped at the back, with others featuring bow detailing to the rear, mirroring the handmade beauty of couture. The colour palette ranged from purples reflective of the setting sun on a London skyline to the grey of rain-soaked tarmac. Circular-style bags were crafted from dormant leathers and fabrics discarded from major French luxury Houses, clutched under models’ arms, mirroring the haste of a shoulder bag scrambled into action for the Sunday morning offie run. Long grey coats were layered with white hoodies, worn hood-up, and shades on, shielding its wearer’s eyes from the sins of the night before. 

Speaking after the show, Esh summed up the Aaron Esh woman: “She’s hungover in the morning on a Sunday in her hoodie, but she has the Gucci coat on.” This combination of the everyday and luxury was integral to the collection, where according to the show notes, the “coat you saved up for is pulled over the hoodie you’ve been wearing for days,” a hyper-specific idiosyncratic observation which made so much sense as the collection unfolded. 

Models donned baseball caps and beanies with an “Ae” logo, which to the untrained eye resembles a New Era sports cap but actually serves as an “if you know, you know” marker to fans of the brand. These accessories maintained a “dressed down” sentiment to a largely elevated affair and reflected Esh’s “specific Haggerston, Dalston, Hackney, lens.” For the London designer, it’s quite simple. “if you’re from here, you get it.” 

Aaron Esh Fall/Winter 2024 merged clubby coolness with couture-like elegance in his native East London, reflective of his sharp observations and even sharper design. He was able to solidify his captivating London-rooted brand codes and present the Aaron Esh manifesto, in a truly magnificent way. It was considered. It was cool. It was London.

More on Culted 

See: Holzweiler Fall/Winter 2024 gave us big puffers for days

See: Welcome to the mystical world of Ahluwalia FW24

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