Thom Browne FW24 was a snowy escape into the land of Poe

Thom Browne FW24 was a snowy escape into the land of Poe

by Robyn Pullen
6 min

“Once upon a midnight dreary” Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 show was held. Well, it was actually at 10pm last night, but the runway design in the style of a wintry, moonlit snow-scape transported you into the setting of a poem; specifically The Raven by Edgar Allen Poe. As the city of New York was dusted in a thick layer of snow, Thom Browne flung open the doors of the Shed in Hudson Yards for his Fall 2024 collection, an interpretation of Edgar Allen Poe’s 1845 poem. The tale describes a person who’s woken on a “bleak December” night by a rapping at their door, and opens it to find a raven.

Following the show, Thom Browne distributed a poem of his own, inspired by Poe’s original story. Despite opening with the same sentence as The Raven – “once upon a midnight dreary…” – Browne’s take describes his intention within the collection, from inspiration to execution. Here’s our dissection of Thom Browne Fall 2024, using lines from Browne’s own lyrical tale.

“a tree stands amid the haze, shrouded in silk moiré…”
Thom Browne©

The image of a tree is more than an abstract construct in Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 poem; it’s actually a person. The line describes the first model on the runway’s snowy carpet, who stays stationary for the duration of the show, towering in the centre of the showspace. Whilst the look itself is far from tree-like – given the ‘tree’ is dressed in an immense black puffer coat cascading around him, layered over a suit and tie – the branches escaping from their head and sleeves indicate that this model is the tree.

“the children come out from under…”

As the second look – a black and white, tweed, quilted jacket, layered over a suit-inspired top, tailored shorts, and knife-sharp stiletto boots – made its way through the icy landscape, a child appeared from under the tree’s puffer coat. Then a second one, and a third, all similarly dressed in various tailored suits, clutching leather Hector bags in their hands (Thom Browne’s iconic sausage dog shapes bags.) The children follow the second model around the show space before taking a seat before her, “eager to hear a grim, grim tale…” as Browne’s poem describes.

“early in the twentieth century…”
Thom Browne©

Thom Browne indicates his inspiration for the collection through the poem’s next line, referencing the early 1900’s as the time period in which his show is set. Transporting us to the early twentieth century via tailored suits – layering shirts under waistcoats under jackets under coats – the style of Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 collection abides by the uniform rules of the time period, something Browne has always shown an interest in. Whilst modernised by the futuristic sheen of waterproof vinyl bags, or the shortness of a plaid skirt, his collections never fail to draw on the time period that appreciated tailoring the most.

“the raven, wrapped in a stole of shredded tuxedos”
Thom Browne©

The deconstructed element of Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 collection is what conveys the raven’s wardrobe as “shredded,” with strips of black mohair and silk, canvas and lining, grosgrain and labels creating the idea that the looks have been destroyed and re-imagined.  Tartan bows hung from the sleeves of jackets; chequered coats were constructed of mismatched patterns and parts; and cardigans made of shredded, laddered wool were worn over shirts. Contrasted with the seamlessly executed tailoring within the collection, this aspect of deconstruction helped to add texture, structure, and personality.

“their longwing, curved heels”
Thom Browne©

Accessories in Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 show were abstract and iconic, as is always expected from the brand. Footwear featured elongated and knife-sharp toes on the tips of vinyl heeled boots, contrasted with the bulky platforms of professional-looking brogues. These were accompanied by a flurry of bags, from the structured Mr. Thom to the baguette, and a pack of handheld Hectors.

“as one story comes to an end, another begins”
Thom Browne©

Upon the show’s finalé, Alex Consani entered the wintry space dressed as a giant, golden bug. She was wearing a huge jacquard cloak, decorated with images of roses and ravens, which the children from the start of the show then removed to reveal Consani’s second look. Beneath it was a ballooning white skirt adorned with raven motifs and a red, white, and black bow at the front, paired with a gold, buttoned cardigan. It was a perfectly poetic final look to a show inspired by the avant-garde universe of Thom Browne’s imagination.

Featured image via Thom Browne©

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