For the first time since February 2020, IRL shows were back in New York. NYFW concluded on Sunday after a week of exciting debuts, surprising comebacks and the obligatory set of new memes (Hi, Larry David). We’ve rounded up some of our favourite shows from the week, ready for dissection.
LUAR
Raul Lopez, after a three-year long hiatus, catapulted Brooklyn’s cult favourite brand LUAR into a new era in this exciting comeback show. The show transcended just clothing: the audience were cheering both Lopez’ and New York’s comeback after the turmoil of the last year and a half. The clothes were celebratory too: high-sheen leather trenches among iridescent mini bags and embroidered, elevated athleisure combined to make LUAR’s NYFW show one to remember. Earth tones featured prominently, as well as LUAR’s recognisable chest cinching belt.
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THOM BROWNE
Another NYFW comeback, but in opposition to the celebratory atmosphere of LUAR, Thom Browne’s show reduced its audience to tears. Set to a cinematic orchestra and adorned by floral human statues, models walked hand in hand down the runway, visions in Browne’s signature sunken tailoring and organza headpieces. The initial grey tones soon gave way to a rainbow colorway, something not usually seen by Browne but perhaps contributing to the overwhelming emotion of his NYFW offering.
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THEOPHILIO
Speaking of colour, Theophilio did not come to play with their sun-soaked, Jamaican inspired show at NYFW. Edvin Thompson, the brain behind the brand, reflected his dual Jamaican-American identity in the collection, which featured sunset mesh and bold coloured string as central tenets. A relative newcomer to the fashion week circuit, Thompson cemented his position as one of the most exciting young designers, focused on empowering black creatives and sparking joy in the fashion industry. We can’t wait to see what comes next!
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MAISIE WILEN
After the year or two of quarantine-dressing, Maisie Wilen threw the whole 21st Century away in their offering at NYFW. Almost all the models wore elongated gloves, paired with white lace layered fits, reminiscent of 18th century lingerie. Blending modern design trends (think cut outs, deconstruction) with ‘Little Bo Peep’ hats and silk ribboning, lead designer Maisie Schloss playfully looked back to a pre-covid utopia. Other standout pieces included a pink and green psychedelic dress, looking back to her previous collections, and a healthy collection of low-waisted miniskirts.
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ECKHAUS LATTA
A highly anticipated event in the fashion week calendar, Eckhaus Latta delivered everything and then some. Models sported blue pigment on their faces in the outdoor venue in Brooklyn, and audiences were packed in to see what many hailed as the show of the season. The collection was consistently cool: cutouts, layered nylon and negative space featuring heavily. Tones shifted from deep, earth tones to bright white: all in mesh. Everything was on display, garments held together tenuously and intentionally: Zoe Latta herself commenting that “We’re all held together by a string or a snap, doing the best we can”. It seems that Eckhaus Latta’s best, though, is truly up there with the top tier of NYFW.
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