Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt have kicked off London Fashion Week with their eponymous brand’s “Away” Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Following on from the big reveal of its Mulberry collaboration – which is centred around 27 pre-loved bags that have all been given the Stefan Cooke touch – came a runway collection of newness for the brand.
Signature style met House debuts with the bags taking centre stage, but elements found here went beyond just the carryable accessories. For example, the same studs on the Mulberry bags decorated slip-on leather shoes, heightened by the silhouette’s meticulous attention to detail and British-made craft – pillars that Stefan Cooke stands by season after season.
Such was evident in the clothing too. Military medical coats were redone in British Milleraine waxed cotton and appeared in fireman red and yellow, later going on to define quite literal fireman jackets dressed with a peplum and skirt at the bottom. The palette was consistent and was found on graduation sashes cut in lambswool, darting across the body to naturally draw our eye to the Mulberry bags carried in hand.
Elsewhere, Stefan Cooke played on the foam finger that was dotted around its Instagram account by delivering padded foam one-pieces. Sun-drenched in washed-out pastel hues, the foam was a case for subversion as it padded and protected the body, but cinched the waist with the use of a leather belt, looking like the world’s friendliest straight jacket.
Another surprise was the “SC” monogram that was embroidered to pockets or blown up across T-shirt dresses, dubbed by the brand as “billboard size.” And it’s something worth shouting about, as monogrammed tees and caps leant into the collegiate undertones of this collection, in turn creating a uniform for the School of Stefan Cooke.
“Away” was Stefan Cooke’s most cohesive, and advanced, collection to date. Dresses and mini skirts cut in wool came one moment, quarterback silhouettes found in lycra with padded shoulders the next. Put by the brand, this was a collection all about “bold simplicity, high-fashion confidence, hard-core craft, subversive silhouettes: it is a severe and refined vision for men’s fashion, pushing a silhouette with statement.”
More on Culted