SRVC SS24 gave us a reality check

SRVC SS24 gave us a reality check

by Ollie Cox
7min

For SS24, SRVC (pronounced SERVICE, obvs) unravelled technology’s impact on our lives, encouraging us to take a step back and look up from our screens as part of its debut collection, which asked us to reflect on how we alter our reality with our online presence. 

As part of the delve into our desire to distort, the clothing produced for the collection was morphed and moulded into different items, something the brand has become known for, as it incorporates ‘self-styling’ into garments. A Nappa leather trench featured removable vest inserts, and cargo pants featured three size tiers that can morph into A-line shorts. Stretch knit tops featured detachable sleeves and a shawl to level up even basic items. 

The thrifty layering continued throughout the show, with beige neck-high waistcoats worn over the top of boxy shirts, with tassels mirroring the movement of models on several looks from mini skirts to halter neck tops. 

Bags varied in size, some small and carried to the side of models, contrasting with roomy denim totes. This utilitarianism continued throughout the show, with cargo pockets featuring on skirts and trousers, perfect for girlies on the go. 

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Since being founded in 2021 by Rickey Wesley, the London-based label has carved a name for itself as a brand that allows its wearers to make its ultra-modern designs its own, riding the line between sexy and smart. SRVC creates garments unique to each wearer, which has created a loyal following in its short history.  

The collection explored and questioned the notion of a simulated approach to memories, far removed from the traditional assemblage of the physical photo albums of yesteryear. This was seen through prints distorted with human forms beneath palm trees. 

As it presented the idea of curated Instagram-worthy images as a threat, a dystopian, world-ending feel began to take hold, with some models wearing silver one-pieces complete with tassels, gloves and heels, half covering its wearer, with hair styled to cover one-half of the wearer’s face, which according to the show notes, symbolised an “enigmatic woman-like creature, who emerges from the water-bearing striking marks on her body.” Further nods to the digital world were seen through a tortoise print which featured on dresses and vests, evoking the appearance of pixels through a lens. 

As part of its inaugural runway collection, SRVC asked us to stop and think, to re-calibrate and assess what the future will look like if we continue to alter how others see our lives. The brand’s SS24 collection gave wearers the power to control their reality through customisable, forward-thinking garments. We interviewed SRVC creative director Ricky Wesley to get a better insight into his latest collection.

Hey! How does it feel to finally present your SS24 offering at London Fashion Week, and why did you choose this season?

It feels incredible, I think we represented ourselves really well and we’re able to finally invite people into a more dynamic insight into our narrative and point of view! It was really nice to be able to show people not only our new collection, but also who what we represent beyond clothing! Introducing a diverse cast of women of different ages, races and shapes! Also the music we love and want you to hear and how that compliments the brands aesthetic. It was really a great opportunity to immerse people into who we are in broader sense. 

It really felt like the right time to show. We have been working hard in strengthening our wholesale presence, and it felt right to be able to offset that our first show to give people another insight into what SRVC is all about. 

Talk to us a little bit about this collection’s inspiration, and where it fits into SRVC’s refined futurism as a whole.

The collection narrative began with me thinking a lot about how we consume holidays in the past vs today. In the past before the internet we captured moments for us to remember and cherish, today people capture moments to share for others, predominantly social media, and it’s so different in how today we almost live moments for everyone else’s digital consumption. 

This collection leans into both the holiday nostalgia of truly being present for the ones we love and todays digital fascination with each others lives and what that could look like if we continue. 

Aesthetically I addressed with some tech I infused textures, like heat activated knits that change colour, a knit that mimics the wash and visual of denim, provoking the viewer to question if what they are seeing is real and are they paying attention to the present. 

Our prints like the digital tortoiseshell print is a note on seeing natural forms through a processed lens, so it’s in moments like this we bring futurist perspectives that compliment the existing SRVC universe.

How important is styling in pulling together the perfect runway show for you, and how do you go about this?

I worked very closely with the wildly talented Dogukan Nesanir on styling. He and I had countless conversations on what each garment means, what it does functionally and where it fits in the narrative. He really heard me and understood that narrative aside at SRVC women are the absolute authority so when telling our story he made sure the styling kept our models empowered and as important as the clothing they were wearing. 

How long did it take you to make this collection? How long does it usually take you to make your looks, from sketching to the final product?

This collection I started conceptually last summer, I knew we wanted to show so I really spent some time thinking about what was important to me story wise. This collection did take a little longer than usual as planning a show collection is a different beast. We also had a lot of firsts in this range, like jewellery which we collaborated on with the wonderful Milko Boyarov and also bags which we are very excited about sharing. 

You’re known for using hyper-futurism in a way that empowers women through your designs. How did that come into play for this collection?

Empowerment is the first and most important thing I do. I never want to put clothing into the world that makes a woman feel objectified or out of control. I work very closely with the women in my team. I fit on them, drape on them, always wanting to know, how do you feels? Is this supporting you? Do you feel comfortable? I think as a man designing women’s clothing I am very conscious of wanting the council of the women around me before putting a garment out. 

We’ve already seen SRVC everywhere and you have a roster of v famous faces in SRVC – what’s been your favourite VIP SRVC look to date, and why?

I am so grateful to all of the women that have worn the brand, It blows my mind every time that I get to contribute to the narrative of such influential figures! Honestly my favourite people I see wearing SRVC are our clients! When they tag and post and say how great they feel, it means more than anything! Designing clothing that contributes to someone having an amazing day really is such an incredible feeling to me. 

Who would be your dream person to dress in SRVC, and why?

I have so many people I would love to work with, spanning across music and art. But my dream project is, and I don’t think would ever happen, apparently Quentin Tarantino may do Kill Bill 3…I would give anything to do costume design for this, absolutely anything!  

You can take a look at the SRVC show above. More London Fashion Week content can be found across Culted online, on Instagram, and on TikTok.

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