With over 25 years of experience, Sacai’s Chitose Abe is a deconstruction veteran at this point – her signature techniques in her classic repurposed trenches and bombers are instantly recognisable. But if she feels inspired with different silhouettes and techniques for her new collection, that’s more than ok. Her FW25 was more sleek and more sultry than other seasons.
The womenswear collection took some of the FW25 men’s fur elements, but translated them for the ultimate chic woman. The fur was a bit more low-key compared to the menswear collection, sticking mainly to fur trims on jackets, dresses and tops, but also fur bags and fur flats which complemented the fits, and one fur T-shirt dress with a woven graphic, which gave huge main character energy. Chitose also embedded a lot of ponchos – made out of puffers, wools and furs, obviously.
The signature Sacai deconstructed elements that Chitose always features – peacoats, trenches, bombers and hybrid jackets – were all present, but the Japanese designer kept it more chill, with a bigger focus on sleek silhouettes and experimenting with more evening looks of tailoring, long mermaid skirts paired with slouched riding boots, and sequin and feather details.
And it was fire: we really vibed with the repurposed mermaid skirts, the hints of red, the ponchos, the silks, the graphics, the furs. Chitose has mastered her art, celebrating 25 years last season, but she’s still not done experimenting.
Featured images via Getty Images©
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