Today’s Rabanne runway had us set for fall and winter. As in pretty much every other catwalk this season (including men’s) the collection was dripped in fur, this time in the form of black waistcoats, mob-wife (and mob-husband) coats, and cream collars.
In a look befitting of a Russian winter, a glittery blue dress was hemmed with cream fur and had fur pelts resembling animal tails hanging from the skirt hem, mirroring the ribbon pleats at Simone Rocha and the tie pleats at Thom Browne. The collection’s hats were also fitting of a Russian heiress: trapper hats were rendered in intricate crystals, with flaps that, in one look, reached the model’s waist.
But creative director Julien Dossena wasn’t just dressing us for winters in Saint Petersburg. He also served up fall-ready transparent plastic rain macs (some of which were fur lined) allowing the models’ fits to be both visible and protected from the elements (a potential staple during festival season).
The collection was rich in eveningwear: ankle-length dresses were strewn in rectangular silver sequins—which dominated this season—and pre-layered dresses, which mixed and matched textures and colours, were paired with boots. The soundtrack reflected the collection’s lavish energy, with a Bridgerton-esque classical score reverberating through the showspace.
In a rogue choice, cowboy-style wild rags made an appearance. It was giving Bella Hadid’s Yellowstone cameo, but make it fashion. However, the collection’s standout feature was undoubtedly the jackets’ asymmetrical tailoring, with several featuring a double-layered lapel and torso.
Tbh, we’re ready for a Russian mob wife/husband fall fr.
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