If you need one fashion show to reflect the current culture, that’s hands down Prada, baby. Miuccia Prada and her partner-in-crime Raf Simons are observers, sociologists, philosophers – they just straight up know what’s up.
The designer duo has been exploring the motif of the current world’s overstimulating flow of information for a few seasons now. The Italian house’s SS25 collection was a chaotic explosion of looks that explored extremes. The show notes wrote: “We exist in an era of extreme information, immersed in a constant stream of content, our consumption of an infinite panorama offered by the internet is driven by algorithms, finite sequences of instructions that circumscribe the decidable through logic in a fundamentally illogical world.”
Prada’s SS26 took a 180º turn. Today’s collection was described as: “A response to the overload of contemporary culture – a process of distillation, of filtration through clothes.” Miuccia and Raf intellectualised the realm of consumerism and media through a different lens this season.
As the lights dimmed, the beat of “Moments in Love” by Art of Noise filled the patent orange show space (very Nickelodeon vibes) of the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito in Milan. The New Age ‘80s synth sound along with the hyper-vivid vinyl floor brought a dreamy yet unsettling energy to the function. A fragmented ‘80s dream sequence.
Uniform is king
At first glance, the opening look seemed like a sturdy boilersuit, but, after zooming into our videos, it was actually a safari shirt with matching tailored pants. More utilitywear followed in a range of muted colours (navies, grey-blues and khakis), paired with scrunched leather gloves and sheer overall-esque skirts layered over utility bloomers.
Miuccia’s self-referencing took form in boxy silhouettes and uniform-style cuts. Skirts took a page from the ‘50s (as well as the Prada archives). High waists and pleated fabrics flowed on the runway, breezy suspender-style skirts were layered over utility shirts and belly-deep V-necks revealing crop tops and pinstripe bras. Scrunched bubble skirts mirrored the coveted worn-in vibe of the current times, but also nodded to Miuccia’s own work from the ‘90s. Ruffled skirts were collaged with lace and pleats in a patchwork of skirt styles. If you can’t make your mind up about what style of skirt you want to wear, you don’t have to choose.
Prada’s refined romanticism embraced the uniform. Whether it was an actual uniform (see the pleated skirts and the utility shirts) or the concept of something being worn over and over again with the creased, worn-in elements.
How ugly chic do you want it? Yes.
Then came the colour blocking. Prada’s uncompromising, clashing palettes were ever present. Browns were paired with greys and greens, butter-yellow was styled with grey, a vivid purple stood with khaki. The colour combinations reflected a more introspective nonchalance, a steer away from the outgoing power dressing of SS25 and FW25. SS25 questioned reality with its bold and whimsical elements, FW25 questioned femininity with big furs and loud florals, SS26 tried to make sense of it all in a balanced confusion.
Accessories will always be the main character
It’s Prada, of course the accessories stood out. New, angular Galleria-style bags in smooth leathers and crocs took to the glossy runway, as well as pouch-style clutches, sporty messengers and a leather mini duffel bag. The scrunched bicep-length gloves added a touch of avant garde – complementing the ‘80s synth tune by Art of Noise – and nodded to the house’s leather goods heritage.
Big ‘70s angular metal frames argued against the acetate sunglasses’ supremacy of recent years. The eyewear also featured embellishments on the temple tip, a Prada-coded detail if we ever saw one. While on the shoes we saw an array of subtle kitten heels with cut-outs and ribbon elements, as well as low-profile sneakers.
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