Seán McGirr seems to be settling well into the house of McQueen. This season felt like an evolution from SS25, a continuation of McGirr’s growth at McQueen. The collection was inspired by dandyism, the Victorian movement of having fine taste and good rizz: “I wanted to explore the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our modern world,” said McGirr on the collection.
McGirr took some silhouettes from the summer collection (like the georgette dress) and gave us the winter version. But this collection felt more punk and gothic. The first section was all-black looks, sharp shoulders, lace oozing from the wool, extravagant pointed heels. Don’t know why we have all collectively decided to go vamp, but ngl we’re into it.
Most major moment from the collection: the skull scarf is back, hanging from bags and in a top version. We were expecting McGirr to go back into the archives, but not like that. Even though, our emo, Tumblr souls loved to see the infamous 2010s skull motif make its comeback on the runway.
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Although inspired by the Victorian period, you could spot Elizabethan motifs throughout – in the shoulders, the sleeves, the ruffle chokers, the embellished bee-shaped face masks – but the sheer fabrics and silhouettes made the vibe more contemporary and ethereal. That Elizabethan aviator bomber at the end was crazy work, we’ll be wearing that to the banquet function.
The head-to-toe red looks were the standout – the colour tends to grab attention like that – but it was also interesting to see magenta on the McQueen runway; it feels like a lot of designers this season have steered off bold colours like this so this was a breath of fresh, camp air. Also good to see florals: that avant-garde short dress with the ruffles was everything.
There was heavy focus on the brand’s accessories and leather goods: the limelight was on the bags (the Fabergé one!), the pointed shoes, and the sunglasses (which added aura points to the looks). That pearl egg bag looked a little familiar though. The tailoring was skinny and sleek but, similarly to last season, it was the eveningwear that stood out the most. And those big-ass angel-winged furs, which gave the biggest main character energy.
McGirr is getting more confident with his work. And the McQueen in him is McQueening. Last season felt more serious, this season felt like he was having more fun with it. It was camp, it was bold and avant-garde, but also incredibly elegant.
Featured images via Getty Images©
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